Self-Stitched-September: Day One

Hello again, friends! Wow, I've done a lot of blogging this week. With Self-Stitched-September kicking off, it is only going to get worse, I'm afraid. After this season, y'all may be absolutely sick of seeing my face. For today's outfit post, I at least varied the background a bit. Trying to find a well-lit, but simple place in my house to take pictures is proving difficult.

Today, I wore an unblogged dress. It's another Simplicity 2591 I whipped up last month, made in a plum-and-cream retro quilting cotton I bought from The Stitch Lab last year. Since then, I've developed a bit of a fabric snob streak and haven't known what to do with this yardage. Enter my trusty 2591! While this isn't my favorite dress, it's still a lovely shape and the fabric is pretty cute. Best of all, it's maroon! On game days, I can wear this dress and not feel like a bad Aggie. Always a plus.

Dress: Simplicity 2591
Belt: Ralph Lauren
Shoes: Clarks Fiddle Bow (of course - I love them)

Why, What A Challenging Season

Oh, friends. I'm so very excited. It's fall!

Well, that's a lie. Today in Austin, it's supposed to be 102 degrees. Not exactly the crisp autumnal weather one expects. But I'm sure we'll be wearing sweaters by Halloween. Surely. Only 2 months to go! Here's the thing - even if it's still hot as blazes here, we're ready for a change. We may be wearing tank tops and espadrilles, but we're wishing for wool skirts and boots. In that vein, I'm turning my sewing focus to a fall wardrobe.

Luckily, there are a few sewing challenges beginning that have this very thing in mind. There's the Colette Fall Palette Challenge, the cozier twin of the challenge held this past spring, where participants pick a palette for autumn and sew a capsule wardrobe over 10 weeks. Additionally, Alessa, Ali, and Sarah are hosting The Fall Essentials Sew-Along, whose participants aim to sew lovely fall necessities, such as warm skirts and layering blouses. Finally, to really kick fall off correctly, it's Self-Stitched-September! SSS isn't technically a sew-along, as the rules are really more of a wear-along, but it's a good time to add some much-needed basics to a wardrobe.

It may be a bit mad, but I'm undertaking all three. (Okay, the madness factor is greatly reduced when one considers how well these three overlap. I shall be sewing Fall Essentials in a Fall Palette, it appears.) There is one caveat, however: I'm starting a bit later. Like I may have have mentioned, it's a bit hot here and will continue to be for the foreseeable future. So, I'm giving myself a fall sewing reprieve until later this September. I may work up a few transitional pieces, but I'm going to mainly use this time to finish out some projects for the rest of summer. Specifically, the Austin City Limits Music Festival is in a few weeks' time and I need some ACL-friendly outfits. Over the past 10 years of attending, I've learned well. Sitting in a field for three days, baking in one-hundred degree weather, requires the most strategic clothing possible - normally light, flowy dresses and giant sunglasses in my case. Expect to see your fill of those, before plaid wool skirts take over the blog.

So, friends, are you joining in on any of these great challenges? If so, I can't wait to see your creations and self-stitched finery! Have you started thinking palettes and plans yet? If so, what sort of inspiration are you drawing on for the fall?

My first SSS '11 post will be up later this afternoon. Now, if only I could figure out what to wear...

New Colette Patterns!

As y'all know very well, I'm a Colette Patterns fangirl. So, it was with pure delight that I read Sarai's blog this afternoon previewing their three new designs for autumn. Let's discuss, shall we?


First up, there's a new blouse pattern, Jasmine. It's a tie-front bias-cut blouse, without closures, and with two sleeve options, one elbow-length and gathered, one shorter with a notched band. I love this pattern. A lot. There are some silks picked up in New York this summer, that I've been angsting how to use. I think I'll try this in a cotton voile, make any necessary changes, then get started on a coral crepe de chine version with a contrasting floral georgette bow. Can. Not. Wait!



Colette's second pattern offering is this lovely little cigarette pant, the Clover. Have you ever seen a pattern more suited to an Audrey Hepburn film? They're so, so cute! I've never sewn a pair of trousers, but the description of these look remarkably beginner-friendly. The design, on the other hand, may be one of those best left in the So Cute In Theory, But Not Flattering For My Body category. This is the only of the three I didn't immediately pre-order, for that reason. No doubt, however, I'll see some lovely versions and start clamoring for my own.


Lastly, we come to the pièce de résistance, at least in my opinion, the Peony dress. A sheath dress with lovely lines, the Peony comes in two sleeve lengths with a cummerbund waist tie. It's a simple pattern, but I'm already imagining the possibilities for embellishment. With fall just around the corner, this is a great dress for heavy jewel-toned twills or private school worthy wool plaids. I'm thinking I might need both options...

So, what do you think about the new Colette designs? Are there any other Fall 2011 patterns you're dying to try out? This is my favorite season to sew things for, so I'm just itching to see people's autumnal creations. With patterns like these, it's going to be a very cute season, indeed.

[all images sourced from Colette Patterns]

Miss Ivy Gets All Buttoned Up: Colette Sorbetto

Friends, you did not read that title incorrectly. This really is a Sorbetto top. It's not from the main branch of the family, mind you, since it's missing that lovely center pleat, but it's definitely a distant cousin. I suppose one could call this the Scarsdale Sorbetto. You know, like those relatives who show up for family reunions, but to whom no one can quite remember how they're related? I don't actually possess any of those relatives, but if I did I'm sure they would be from Scarsdale.

Anyway, the Scarsbetto. She has pintucks. She has buttons. Her buttons actually function. You can see why the main branch of the family looks askance at her during afternoon croquet. After all, the whole point of the Sorbetto pattern is that it is an easy, no-fuss, no-closure blouse. The original is truly lovely, but for my second iteration, I couldn't resist a little overzealous experimentation.

Let's talk process, shall we? How does such a creature come to exist? Well, it all started with the buttons. You may recall the buttons on my last Sorbetto - little fabric-covered crimson ones. They were adorable with the blouse, really, but...they didn't work. Buttons are always delightful, but if they don't actually button, they're just sad little notions serving no purpose. How dreadful for them, don't you think? (And, yes, I was that child who anthropomorphized my M&Ms. Little Mary just knew those damn red M&Ms were always ganging up on the tan ones. The poor dears.) So, I resolved to fix that with my second iteration. This Sorbetto was going to button.

And so it does. Getting there was a bit of an ordeal, however. My plan was rather straightforward - I'd measured for the plackets and button spacings and everything. Unfortunately, I neglected to factor that ever-irritating button issue- they tend to gape on large busts. My original Sorbetto FBA was perfect for a no-closure blouse, but buttons need a bit more room. When fitting it mid-sew, I realized my error. Enter the pintucks. To add a bit more width, I decided to add two extra panels to the middle of the blouse, then hide the seams with pintucks. It added a bit more work time, but I love the look. I couldn't get a proper picture of the fit, but it is practically perfect. Hooray!

As a finishing touch, the Scarsbetto has white bias-tape binding on the neckline, sleeves, and hem. It sets off very well against the white-and-seafoam striped shirting I bought from Fabric Mart. With wide-leg white pants and espadrilles, it's divinely reminiscent of the 1930's. Well, it would if I looked a bit more like Katherine Hepburn, anyway. Today, I did the unthinkable and just wore it with jeans. I love it either way. The buttons add the perfect bit of interest and are definitely a concept I'll be revisiting soon. I can't help thinking this would be a lovely little September dress... Perhaps with a fitted waistband and gathered skirt?

[Note: To enlarge any picture, simply click it!]

Circle Skirt Sew-Along

Did any of you see Casey's Circle Skirt Sew-Along (CSSA) over at Elegant Musings? I hemmed and hawed about it but finally decided to join! I'll be posting comments on Casey's blog as "Stephanie J." If you're also doing it, please post a comment so I can keep an eye out for you and give you a virtual wave.

So far we're on step two of the CSSA with step one being the inspiration/details. Tonight's task was to take measurements and when that consists of only the waist measurement and the skirt length it makes me very happy. Mary can attest to my stress about getting measurements correct. I have fears of buying a fantastic fabric, starting a pattern, and ending up with one whopper of a disaster when I find out I didn't buy enough fabric. I'm sure there are ways around this but I'm a newbie and have great hopes of getting everything right the first time around. [cue laughter]

I'll be going with a classic knee length on this one. The fabric decision is eluding me at this point but there's a vision swirling in my mind. Imagine an olive green skirt paired with cognac boots, a crisp white blouse, and a saucy cloche hat. I have a love of menswear interpreted for women and while this is a decidedly more feminine take with the skirt, I think it will look divine. The pattern of the fabric will be key on this so I better get on with my research.

Have you ever sewn a circle skirt? Will I get to see any of you over on the comments of the CSSA?

Miss Ivy Rides a Vespa: Colette Sorbetto

Good evening, lovelies! Did you have a wonderful weekend? I certainly did, working on a quick project that had me posing in front of ye olde bookshelf again. After seeing all the adorable versions of Colette's latest free pattern, the Sorbetto blouse, I decided to whip up one of my own.

Despite the simplicity of the blouse - with only two darts, one box pleat, and no closures - there were a few new techniques for me in this project. First off, the pattern is online, instead of in a traditional envelope, which means: printing, cutting, and taping the thing together. Not going to lie, I've put off Burdastyle patterns in an effort to avoid this situation exactly. The whole idea of piecing and taping dozens of computer pages sounded horrid. The Sorbetto and its cuteness won me over, however, and - surprise! - I didn't mind these steps at all. Maybe it was due to the number of pages, only 15 in all, but it took me just 30 minutes to assemble the pattern. Not bad at all, especially when the outcome is so lovely!

The two other new techniques both involved the bias tape finish. Not only did I try exposed bias facings for the first time, but I made my own bias tape, as well. Fancy, non? Even better, it was a total breeze. Using Sarai's tutorial on continuous bias tape, a Simplicity bias tape tool, and my trusty iron, I used a bit of my extra fabric to make the bindings. Y'all, I think I'm addicted. I can't imagine using facings ever again. Why would I, when I can make my own matching bias tape?

As an extra finishing touch, I also added fabric-covered buttons down the box pleat. In a coordinating cardinal red, they really set off the floral lawn I used. I'm a total sucker for buttons, even of the unusable variety.

Buttons and bias tape and pleats, oh my!

When it comes to the blouse itself, this is another winning Colette pattern. Despite not having sewn any up until now, I'm a rabid fan of tank tops. If I were to have a uniform, it would consist ofvery feminine tank tops, paired with cardigans and full skirts. After sewing up the Sorbetto, I may have even more uniform options - there are so many possibilities for this pattern. I also have a dozen two-yard cuts of shirting just waiting to be made into embellished little tops. If the delightful Mena has seven Sorbettos, we all should, don't you think?

Things I Love:

• The Pleat! Aren't box pleats divine? I love interesting details on blouses and this is an especially lovely one. Every tank top needs such style.
  
• The Fabric Usage! Even with the extra length I added, this blouse used less than two yards of fabric. If you have a petite torso, or like your blouses a little shorter, the 1 1/2 prescribed yards would be perfectly right. With such scanty fabric requirements, it's hard not to want this shirt in fine silks, isn't it?
  
• The Exposed Bias Facing! I've already raved about this detail, but it's truly lovely. Not only does it give a clean finish, but a cute one, as well.
  

Things I Changed:

• Added three inches of length. At 5'8'', I tend to find Colette's blouses to be a bit on the short side for me. I tissue fit the Sorbetto and then added length accordingly. The blouse now hits me just right, in line with my hips.
  
• Added fabric-covered buttons as embellishment. I've been studying my favorite RTW styles lately, focusing on the details that make me fall in love with pieces. Embellishment was a big theme among these, which has led me to the decision to add more of it in my own sewing. Buttons certainly fit the bill...and I love them.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Vary up the embellishments. I do plan on making this shirt a few more times, but plan on spicing it up with pintucks, piping, lace, and other finishing techniques. This is such an easy pattern to not only sew, but alter to your heart's content.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Not a single tricky step in the bunch! Such good news, no?

Fabric Used:

• Cream floral lawn from the Moda Regent Street collection. Purchased for $12/yard. Note: I love this fabric. I own two other lawns from this collection, each equally delightful. The prints are classic and the fabric quality reminiscent of the best Liberty lawns.

My new Sorbetto blouse, as modeled by my new best friend, Hedy the Dress Form.
Note: my hem and buttons are, in fact, straight, despite what this picture would maliciously have you believe.