Friday, July 3, 2015

Miss Noelle Walks in Technicolor

Good evening, kittens! Things have been a bit hectic around here, lately. While summers are supposed to be languorous and sunshine-filled, mine has been filled other things entirely. Namely, frantic bouts of writing on a deadline and lots of driving. We've been to Albuquerque, Houston, Austin, and Marfa, all in the span of a few weeks. I am le tired, y'all.

Before all that hubbub, however, I did get some sewing done. This lovely dress, which fairly screams Mary, was my Mood Sewing Network project for the month of June. I've had this lightweight floral cotton on my radar for months now. It's exactly the sort of fabric that gets my sewing engine going: bright, floral, and breathable. So, I finally gave in and ordered a few yards. Somehow, this cotton is actually prettier in person. Oranges, reds, yellows, and greens tumble across that hot pink background in the loveliest watercolor floral pattern. It's gorgeous! 

Naturally, I turned it into a sundress. Because, of course I did.

The pattern I used is, technically, Simplicity 1873. However, I had a different vision than 1873's simple two-dart bodice. Something a bit more interesting was called for, in this fabric. I changed the scoop neck to a deep, rounded vee. Then I extended the shoulder line out and up, to make a cut-on cap sleeve, which was finished with a bias band of fabric. To match the front bodice, I then drafted a rounded v-neck onto the back. It's a design similar to a RTW dress that's been in my closet for ages and is one of my favorites.

For the skirt portion, I nabbed the pattern pieces from Vogue 9100. It's a gathered skirt, with hip shaping, and gloriously deep pockets. It's the perfect pairing for the bodice and fabric. The gentle gathering doesn't add bulk, but it's super swishy in the summer heat. Lovely, right?

Technique wise, I pulled out some stops with this dress. It's fully lined in a polka dot, lemon-colored cotton batiste that's been in my stash for eons. The center back zipper is lapped, sewn in by hand, then whip-stitched to the lining. Our main dress fabric was also hemmed by hand, then the lining was triple top-stitched on my machine with a pretty wide hem to increase the swoosh factor. 

Yeah, that's a lot of snooty "by hand" talk in the paragraph above. Plenty of that could've been done by machine just as well, but I needed something to do with my hands, while watching Orphan Black! (Can we talk about the great Donny & Helena moments, this season? They were my absolute favorite scenes, of the whole series. Except, perhaps, for Allison's glue gun psychotic break in Season 1.) Either way, I really like the result. The dress feels special, when I'm wearing it. 

Even better, it dresses up or down beautifully. For summer weddings or date nights, a bright belt and nude heels elevate the look. During my usual day-to-day roamings, though, it looks great with strappy tan sandals and sunglasses.  It's a deceptive workhorse of a garment.

Oh, there is one last fun detail of this dress!  Did you check out my clothing label, earlier in the post? Sam surprised me, last month, with a whole heap of sew-in labels for my garments. They have a cute vintage machine on them and say, "A lovely garment by Idle Fancy." He's really the most wonderful of men.

It seems fitting that this dress, the most Mary dress I've made in quite some time, should be the first to get a real label. Since making this dress, I've worn it about once a week. The lining is so light that it's still comfortable and breezy, in the Texas heat. I need a bit more practice putting the labels in, but y'all gave me some fabulous tips on Instagram. Thanks again!

Unfortunately, this is the last sundress I'll be working on, for a little while. I have a writing conference coming up in New York, at the end of July. More business-appropriate clothes are on the docket, for the next few weeks! Happy sewing! 

Note: The fabric for the main body of this dress was provided to me, free of charge, by Mood Fabrics as part of the Mood Sewing Network. However, all opinions in this post are my own. 

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Miss Gidget Demands a Tiki Drink: Simplicity 1873

Good evening, my dear finicky foxes! This weekend was an exciting one at Chez Danielson Perry. Not only did my younger sister graduate from high school, but Sam and I took her to her very first concert! Laine tossed her cap on Friday morning, then we all saw Brandi Carlile at Stubb's, Saturday night. In between, there were two cakes, lots of visiting family, and (finally!) plenty of sunshine basking. It was an idyllic weekend, to say the least. 

It was, also, a great weekend to wear my new sundress. Now that the sun has arrived in central Texas, all I want to wear are breezy cotton dresses. Unfortunately, my measurements have changed a bit in the last six months, so my go-to sundress bodice needed refitting. It was pulling slightly at the bust, but overly large in the waist and upper chest. I traced off a fresh version of Simplicity 1873, then set about refitting the pattern. I went one size smaller on the bodice overall, then performed a larger FBA, and lowered the neckline by an inch. Voila! The sundress returns.

As a test run of my altered pattern, I gave in to novelty fabric whims. Right now, JoAnn Fabrics has the most adorable line of tropical print cotton shirtings. This red-and-white hula girl print came home with me last month, demanding to become a sundress. Unfortunately, the colors bled, during its pre-sewing wash. The white flowers are no longer true white, but a very, very light pink. Not wanting to abandon the fabric entirely, I used it for this project, in case the bodice turned out horribly. 

Spoiler alert: It didn't. While there are some things I'm going to change, the first approximation of this bodice is quite a good fit. It's much more secure around my waist, while still having enough room for my, shall we say, ample bosom. Huzzah!

Instead of Simplicity 1873's original skirt, I subbed in the gathered A-line from Vogue 9100, which I converted to box pleats. Since this fabric is a true shirting, it felt entirely too stiff for the floaty, circular pleats of the original skirt. Plus, let's be honest. If a fabric bleeds in the wash, no way am I using it to make a labor-intensive skirt! All the pleating and circular hemming of 1873 is worth it on a deserving fabric, but this dress probably won't last past this summer. Four box pleats and I'm out, y'all.

Apart from deciding on pleat placement, the construction of this one was deadly simple. All the seams are serged in white thread, then the neckline and armscyes were finished with white bias tape. I put in a lapper zipper down the center back, hand-stitched the hem up, then called it a day! Dress construction doesn't get much easier, kittens.

As for further tweaks, there are just a few. The neckline needs another half-inch rotated out to the bust darts and the armscyes could use a little tweaking, of their own. I think I might also bring the shoulder in by a half-inch and further plunge the back neckline. For this version, I played at turning the back neckline into a vee, which I like, but it's pretty subtle. Next time, we're showing more skin!

All in all, though, this dress makes me happy. Tropical prints, especially in primary colors, make me long for umbrella drinks and sunshine. This summer, I'm planning on enjoying quite a lot of both! Soon enough, I'm sure the heat in Texas will start getting on my nerves, but it feels wonderful, after all that rain we've had. Even better, I have a fun, new dress to enjoy it in!

Finally, I wanted to extend a huge thank you to everyone who cheered me on in the last post, regarding the Avon writing contest. The support and book love y'all sent my way was deeply appreciated. It also must have rubbed off on the editors, because my alter ego actually won the second round! Yes, I am still flabbergasted and squeeing. Thank you all so much. It's been a bit of an exciting week, top to bottom. There are three more rounds left, so if you're interested in participating, you can still join in on the fun! If not, well, no worries. I'll be back with more sundress ravings, soon!

Note: This post's title is derived, of course, from the Gidget movies. They were my favorites growing up and I watched Gidget Goes Hawaiian, while sewing this dress' hem. Halfway through, I paused the movie and called my mother. Apparently, my looming thirtieth birthday is showing. Instead of nodding along with Gidget's romantic predicaments, I sympathized with her angelically patient parents and wished for her to meet a young Gloria Steinem. What kind of girl complains about a trip to Hawaii, just because her boyfriend won't be there? Drink an illicit piña colada and chill out, Gidg! Also, Jeff is going to be a womanizing ass in Rome, next year, so enjoy your break while you can. Ahem. Needless to say, that movie hasn't quite held up in my heart, like the original Gidget has. At least, in the original, Gidget has some gumption and interests outside of Moondoggy. 

/vintage movie rant

Monday, May 18, 2015

Miss Eve and the Jade Shift: Given a Chance Dress

Good evening, my dears! Yesterday, it stopped raining just long enough to snap pictures of my latest project. We Texans don't like to complain about rain too much, for fear of it disappearing altogether, but I'm taking a stand. For fart's sake, someone bring back the sunshine! We've had rain in the forecast every day for three weeks. It's like Waco suddenly picked up roots and moved to the Pacific Northwest.

Anyhow, enough about my sopping, muddy little habitat. Onto the project!

This slightly overexposed little number is the Given a Chance Dress, from Decades of Style. DoS recently launched their Decades Everyday line, focusing on vintage inspired pieces. These styles are easier, quicker patterns than their usual vintage reproductions. This is only the second pattern in this line, after the adorable E.S.P. Dress, but I'm already a fan girl. These are my ideal patterns, y'all. They have a retro twist, but are easy to mix into a modern wardrobe, without complicated undergarments. 

No need for girdles! Woohoo!

Given a Chance is a bit outside my usual comfort zone, admittedly. It's a 1960's-inspired shift dress, with an origami yoke and pull-on styling. Ever since a sneak preview popped up on Instagram, however, I've been a lusty badger of impatience. It was on sale maybe five minutes, before I bought a copy. Something about that yoke, perhaps the way it easily mixes fabrics, sparked my interest.

This first version of Given a Chance is a wearable muslin. With looser style dresses, I'm always tempted to forgo an FBA and just grade between sizes. Unfortunately, it would be rather difficult to grade this particular bodice. There are double darts high on the side bodice, which can't be blended in easily. So, I sewed the size for my bust measurement and decided to wing it, with some stash fabrics. I ended up choosing this geometric quilting cotton (Which I've actually bought twice! Once for a giveaway, then again, because I missed it in my stash.) and a jade green cotton lawn. It's a color combination that I absolutely adore

Surprise! I needed that FBA. My finished product, with just the one size, was a tent. I took out six inches through my waist and four inches through my hips, after trying it on. After tweaking, it's a reasonably well-fitting garment. The armscyes are still way too low and roomy, but I like the fit through my waist and hips. That gentle flare is a surprisingly lovely silhouette. 

Next time around, I plan on tracing down three sizes, raising the armhole, and doing an FBA. Hopefully, that will get the shoulder/armscye situation more under control. 

Construction of this dress was the perfect mix of interesting and easy. The yoke is formed by a series of fabric folds in the top layer, with a plain lining piece underneath. You get a clean finish for the neckline, then use the two fabrics as one layer for the other seams. Clever! 

The main body of the dress is deadly simple. There are two bodice darts on each side and inseam pockets. That's it! I actually cut out my inseam pockets, after The Great Downsizing. Not only were they in the way, but they were a good four inches lower than I prefer. Next time, I'll raise them up and include them, since day dresses need candy storage. 

As a finish out, this dress calls for armscye facings. Ugh. I loathe those! In my experience, they do nothing but flop around like dead fabric fish, driving me crazy. So, I subbed in bias tape of the same jade green fabric and hand-stitched it in place. Then, I took a two inch hem, and finished it with the leftover bias strips. Hidden pops of color are always a good idea.

All in all, this dress took about three hours of work. For an easy summer staple, that's exactly the amount of time I want to spend sewing. It's a fun, quick project, when you need a burst of creativity. Even better, this yoke is ideal for using up scraps. I eked this one out of a 1/4 yard of fabric! That makes the fabric possibilities for this dress pretty endless, doesn't it? For my next one, I'm considering a blue chambray yoke and red-and-white pinstripe body. 

Admittedly, when unbelted, this dress does look like a 1960's house dress. You know what, though? I really like it. My comfort zone is a bit wider than previously thought!  When the Texas summer finally arrives, roomier styles will be heaven sent.

There's one last thing to share tonight, kittens. The conversation on this blog has, gloriously often, evolved into book recommendations and literary chatter. Many of you are just as avid readers as I am, which has made writing Idle Fancy all the more fun. To that end, I thought you might be interested in an event that recently kicked off.

Avon, the romance arm* of Harper Collins, has revived its much beloved writing competition, Avon Fanlit. This is the same competition that launched the careers of Tessa Dare, Courtney Milan, Tiffany Clare, and many other writers I've recommended in the past. Over the next two months, writers will compete in a round robin style tournament, writing a short novella along the way. Editors will provide a short chapter prompt each week, building the story over time, and will provide feedback along the way. The grand prize will be a publishing contract with Avon itself!

Entry is open to all unpublished (or self-published) authors and voting is open to absolutely any fan of romance. I've thrown my hat in the ring, just for fun, but there are a ton of great writers participating. If you're interested in where the genre is going, chances are some of the people in this contest will have hand in shaping its future. That certainly proved to be the case, last time! Rules are here, voting is open, and the first chapters are live! If you love romance, whether writing or reading, I urge you to check it out. It's going to be a very fun summer, indeed.

*Yes, romance. If you are backing away slowly and threatening to take away my feminism card, I gently guide you toward the brilliant Kelly Faircloth and her series of Jezebel articles on the romance community. Or to the Smart Bitches. Or to Maya Rodale.

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Miss Juliet Forgets You Not: Simplicity 1873

Good evening, Jedi sewing warriors! Tonight, Sam and I are celebrating this most momentous of days (May the 4th) by drinking wine, making horrible Star Wars jokes, and watching Return of the Jedi. Naturally, I thought it would also be the perfect night to blog about this sweet little floral dress. Nothing says "Let's kill some storm troopers!" like quilting cotton covered in forget-me-nots and baby's breath.

This dress was my contribution to the Dress Up Party, hosted by Sara of Sew Sweetness. Throughout the month of May, she'll be featuring guest bloggers in their favorite garment patterns and tons of giveaways. For my post, I decided to sew up another version of my own go-to dress pattern, Simplicity 1873. It's been over nine months since my last version and my sewing machine threatened to revolt, if it didn't revisit this bodice soon.

To be honest, this dress was also influenced by a terribly boring factor: the weather. Our forecast is nothing but mid-eighties and thunderstorms, as far as the eye can see. Summer advances oh-so-quickly, kittens. 

As you may know, my Texas summer wardrobe has a few rules. There must be natural fibers, minimal layers, and ease of movement. If any garment fails on one of these counts, it won't get worn. Fully lined dresses and pencil skirts molder at the back of my closet, unloved, until October. Or, let's be honest, November.

This dress follows my rules in a gloriously practical fashion. I used midweight quilting cotton that didn't need a lining, lowered the front and back necklines for less coverage, and finished the whole thing with light blue bias tape. It's swishy, breathable, and so ready for summer! Even if my ghostly pale skin isn't.

I've blogged about this pattern so many times that it seems redundant to chatter on, but let's take a quick look at its construction anyway. This dress has a two-dart bodice, scooped neckline, and a wide, pleated circle skirt. Honestly, the most painful part of sewing this dress is cutting out all those darn skirt panels! I've been so spoiled by simpler patterns, in recent months, that the refolding and cutting out of this one felt like pulling teeth. I can't believe I tackled this thing, without a rotary cutter, for my first iteration. How torturous!

Luckily, all that tedium is made up for by the construction process, itself. Call me a sewing nerd, but there's nothing I love more than large swaths of pleating. The marking, the folding, the pressing. It's all so cathartic! Putting a heavily pleated floral skirt together is my sewing catnip. 

Beyond the skirt, however, this dress is pretty basic. Eons ago, I performed a two-inch FBA (on the size 20) and a half-inch narrow shoulder adjustment, so it also fits like a dream. It's finished with an invisible zip at the center back, light blue serging along the seam allowances, and the aforementioned bias tape. I even cheated on this one and sewed a standard machine hem. The horror! The quick and satisfying horror!

In the end, I have one heck of a sundress. It's ridiculously feminine, yes, but still easy to throw on with a cardigan and sandals. Wearing it out, especially with my slightly shorter new hair, makes me feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland. It's just so, so sweet. For this time of year, that's one of my favorite qualities in a garment. Even better, wearing it seems to provoke kiss ambushes, from Sam. There are certainly worse consequences from a dress!

Why are you moving into my frame? You know I'm taking pictures, right?
Nevermind. Carry on, Professor!

Saturday, April 18, 2015

Miss Petra and the Sailor: BGD Violet Dress

Good evening, kittens! Tonight, our beloved Houston Rockets are playing in the first round of the NBA playoffs and I need to do something with my hands, so that I don't explode with sports angst. Right now, I'm having a lot of violent feelings about the Mavericks and Dallas, as a whole. Example: Maverick? What kind of mascot is a Maverick? Obviously a rocket, that LAUNCHES FROM THE GROUND WITH FIRE, is inherently better and more terrifying than a horse that is too dim-witted to be trained.

Ahem. Right. Breathing deep. Not speaking ill of a whole city of people, because of a basketball game. Instead, I'm going to talk about something that makes me breathe easier: my newest BlueGingerDoll Violet dress.

Or a variant of it, anyhow. This blue-and-white striped jersey, part of that infamous Girl Charlee order last summer, was begging to be made into a dress. With the amount of traveling we've been doing lately, I also needed another travel-friendly knit garment. I can't handle wrinkles and wovens just don't pack well. However, some tweaks were in order, to make Violet an appropriate pattern for this fabric. Let's discuss the changes, shall we?

While I adore Violet's half circle skirt, it wouldn't work in a striped fabric. The way stripes turn into frown lines, when cut on a curve, gives me the all-overs. My hips should not be making a sad face, y'all. To prevent such a dreadful occurrence, I instead added a simple dirndl skirt, which allowed the stripes to stay parallel to the hem. Crisis averted! To gather this skirt, I just did the standard two lines of basting stitches, scrunched them up evenly, and attached it to the bodice. I've never had much luck with the gather and sew at once method, but this works like a charm anyway, even on knits. Why mess with a good thing?

The other major change I made was to omit Violet's bodice piecing. I'm just not enough of a masochist to do all that stripe matching. Instead, I overlapped each piece by the seam allowance and traced off new bodice pieces. So easy! This also allowed me to reshape the armhole curve a bit more, to better perfect that shoulder-to-sleeve area.

Finally, I omitted the center front gathers. It wasn't actually my intention to take away all of Violet's identifying features, but this fabric just refused to hold those horizontal gathers evenly, especially when going from blue stripes to white. I gave up, rolled my eyes, and declared that this would be a scoop necked dress. I had wanted that all along, of course! Of course.

Behold! Imperfect stripe matching!
I'm going to need to alter the shape of the Violet's sleeve cap, if I sew it in stripes again, so that there's more fabric room to match stripes.

It does not escape me that I took the Violet and unwittingly turned it into a Moneta. We'll pause here for a bad sewist confession. I don't actually know where my Moneta pattern is, y'all. It has been sucked into the mysterious abyss of my sewing room and utterly disappeared. A Faux-neta is as close as I'm getting, unless I decide to retape a whole new pattern. That's an even dimmer prospect, because I love the fit of this unpieced Violet! 

It's a simple dress, sure, but I find myself constantly reaching for it. My true sewing love will always be wovens, but there's something to be said for how easy knit dresses are both to sew and wear. This one has been in heavy rotation, since coming off my machine. That it only took three total hours to sew makes it an even sweeter little piece. Everything was stitched together with a lightning bolt stitch, including the sleeve and skirt hems. They seem to be holding up well, in comparison with my usual twin-stitched finish, but we'll see...


There's not much more to say about this cute, little dress, but I do have other news share! I promise not to inundate y'all with promotions for my Burda classes, because Idle Fancy exists for pretty dresses, but I did want to satisfy any curiosity you may have. As you know, last month, Sam and I traveled to Fort Collins, Colorado, in order for me to film two separate classes for BurdaStyle Academy. Ali actually just posted a fun blog post over at Burda about my experiences there, complete with some backstage (double chin inducing!) photos. It was a blast, from start to finish! So much so that I've actually added an additional, smaller class, to my schedule this spring.

Even better, all three classes will be live over the next month! Woohoo!

Starting April 30th, I'm teaching Pattern Grading for All Sizes, which will discuss different methods of resizing sewing patterns. We'll talk about ruler grading, shift grading, and slash-and-spread grading on a myriad of pattern pieces, in order to make your patterns either larger or smaller. Afterwards, we'll go over some standard fitting alterations to better personalize your graded patterns! This class will run for six weeks, during which time you can ask me as many questions as you'd like and have my complete help, through the process.

On May 4th, I'm teaching Curvy Pattern Alterations, which is a quick one-hour Power Session covering full figure pattern alterations. We'll talk about three different styles of FBAs, full hip adjustments, and full bicep adjustments. This class will run officially for one week, during which time you can send me absolutely any question you have and chat about all the alterations.

Finally, on May 23rd, my second full class, Pattern Grading for Plus Sizes will begin. This class will take the base Pattern Grading class and add a whole slew of extension videos, specific to plus sizes. We'll go through all three methods of grading, plus how to use slopers to copy favorite styles, curvy pattern alterations, and plus size specific grading rules. This one doesn't have an official link yet, but I'll let you know when it's live!

I'm both nervous and thrilled about these courses, friends. I've heard really great things about Burda's teaching software and can't wait to start breaking down pattern grading with students. They're techniques I've been using on vintage and indie patterns, since I returned to sewing, and they really opened up my sewing world. Once you can make any pattern your size, so many style limitations disappear. It's been a bit surreal doing professional sewing work, but it was such fun getting back in a classroom setting. The academic in me geeks out about teaching anything, but teaching techniques for a hobby I love was a truly wonderful experience.
So, that's all my Burda information! If you're interested in the classes, you can find out more at the BurdaStyle Academy site.  If you're not interested, don't worry. There will be periodic updates about these classes, at the bottom of posts, but otherwise nothing is going to change on Idle Fancy. This blog is still all pretty dresses, all the time. My next project involves a dishy Hawaiian print I bought last week. I'm thinking...wrap dress! 



Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Miss Petra and the Rose Clones: BGD Violet Dress

Good afternoon, my darling wombats! Today, we're going to discuss that most beloved of all sewing projects: the comfort sew. Personally, I am a total creature of comfort. I adore cozy things anyhow, but times of emotional upheaval have me reaching for favorite books, baked goods, teas*, and--yes--sewing patterns. Sometimes, all you want is a happy ending, whether in literature or a guaranteed success of a dress. 

While March has had some wonderful happenings, it's definitely been an emotional month. Amid the excitement of filming two classes for Burda in Colorado and visiting our dearest friends in Nebraska, we were also coping with my brother's hospitalization back home. He's fine now--Thank heavens and Xarelto!--but his diagnosis had some potential health ramifications for my whole family. Consequently, some big decisions (namely: timeline des bébés) rose up last week and demanded immediate attention from Sam and myself. Add into all that a gravy of food poisoning, writing deadlines, and potentially needing a new roof, then you come to my mental state, these past few weeks. We're not even going to talk about how my best friend/soulmate of fifteen years is moving to Chicago**, or else I'll turn into a blubbering mess. 

*Books: Aunt Dimity's Death by Nancy Atherton, Crocodile on the Sandbank by Elizabeth Peters, and Romancing Mr. Bridgerton by Julia Quinn
Baked Goods: Pumpkin Bread in the fall, Lemon Blueberry Cake in the spring
Teas: Yorkshire Gold from Taylors of Harrogate

**Moment of bragging: Steph got a FABULOUS promotion and was plucked from Dallas by very wise people, indeed. She's going to be brilliant and completely conquer the Windy City, armed with beautiful coats, two delightfully quirky cats, and an indomitable sense of adventure. Plus, Sam and I are going to visit all the damn time. Chicago sewists, I may be inflicting a lunch/fabric shopping adventure on y'all this summer, if you're game. 

Obviously, a comfort sew was needed. 

Last fall, I pattern tested the BlueGingerDoll Violet dress for Abby and was instantly smitten. The curved v-neck and blocked bodice are such pretty, interesting variations on the basic knit dress. My test version was basic black, but I knew more colorful iterations were in my future, with the final pattern release. Last week, while contemplating The Fabric Closet of Doom, my eye was drawn to this cabbage rose jersey from Girl Charlee and the possibility of a Violet swirled out before me. Is there anything more comforting than secret pajamas made up in a large scale floral print? I think not. 

There are only a few Girl Charlee fabrics in my stash, ordered in a fit of knit excitement last spring. They were such a mixed bag, quality wise, that I haven't braved another order. My turquoise Bonnie dress has held up shockingly well, however, and this rose fabric was washed twice with no ill effects. It's a medium weight cotton jersey, with good stretch in one direction and moderate stretch in the other. The ends curl like the devil and its recovery isn't the greatest, but it also doesn't bag out after a day's wear. Plus, well, ROSES. Enough said. 

The cutting out of this dress was, shall we say, eventful. There may have been a horrific rotary cutter incident, in which my front skirt piece was completely cleaved in two. I then may have screamed in horror, thrown a pincushion in disgust, and flounced out of the sewing room in a tantrum. Maybe. After some pinot noir and an episode of The Mindy Project (Stephen Colbert's guest appearance as Danny's new priest was my everything.), I returned to cut another skirt front. I was just able to eke out the new piece, but there wasn't enough fabric to prevent those rose clones around the waistline. Sam claims it doesn't bother his eye and I'm going with it, because this dress is otherwise lovely. Besides, it's a comfort project, remember? I refuse to be hypercritical of this dress, kittens. 

The construction, luckily, was an absolute joy. I switched back and forth between my serger, for major seams, and my sewing machine, for the more fiddly bits. A lightning stitch, which is easier to control than serging, is my modus operandi for sleeves, neckbands, and other areas that need extra care. Violet's curved v-neck is formed by subtle gathering at the center bodice front and darting on the neckband, which was a blast to construct. Like I said above, this isn't your average knit dress! 

The shoulders, waistband, and gathering are all stabilized with clear elastic, to prevent stretching over time. I took a pretty narrow hem--a half inch--which was turned with fusible knit tape for stability, then top-stitched with a twin needle. The sleeves were also turned and twin-stitched to finish, which brings me to an esoteric wondering, friends. What is the ideal look of twin-stitching on a knit? I've been experimenting with my tension, trying to find that perfect balance between security of thread and minimal channeling. However, I don't even know that channeling is verboten. Sometimes, in the secrecy of my sewing cave, I admit that it actually looks cool on a solid hemline. Neither my mother nor my grandmother sewed with knits, so I've come to most of my knowledge later in life, from the internet. Most knit tutorials end with "then top-stitch with a twin needle!" That's great and all, but my science background insists on more detail. Does channeling make a hem wavier? Does low tension make the hem weak over time? What would happen, if we zig-zagged a hem instead?

I swear, some days I'm tempted to pull a Christopher Kimball and turn this blog into America's Test Sewing Room. Sewing tutorials and books so often tell you how to do something, but rarely why. I crave the philosophy behind these actions, the nitty gritty details about what happens if you do something else. Does backstitching dart tips really increase the chance of bubbling? By how much? Which is truly better, tying them off or narrowing your stitch and clipping the ends? Do these answers change according to fabric type? I suspect tying off is always better on silk, but I wonder if backstitching is a-okay on medium-weight cotton. These are the musings of my overactive mind. 

Oh, right. We were talking about this cute dress, before I devolved into the sewing mysteries that keep me up at night. Let's forge ahead! I'll try not ramble about whether or not to baste across and down pleats. 

If you ignore the brief cutting mishap, this really was a comforting project. Fit-wise, everything is spot on for me, thanks to a narrow shoulder adjustment and some grading between sizes. Abby drafts on a D-cup, so I usually trace off a size based on my full bust measurement, which is a novelty indeed. This one is a size 20 through the bust, grading in to a 14 at the waist and out to an 18 at the hips. Why, yes, my proportions are ridiculously dramatic. I wonder why RTW dresses never fit me correctly? Curious...

In the end, I adore this dress, rose clones and all. It's right in my sweet spot, style wise: the perfect mix of comfort and pretty fabric. Black background florals are, hands down, my biggest fabric weakness. I want to buy them all! Fingers crossed that this particular fabric launders well, over time, because this dress is destined for heavy wardrobe rotation. You will also see Violet again, in the near future. There are a few woven projects on my sewing table right now, but then I'm going to play with a polka-dotted version of this dress. Bring on the warm weather sewing!

Note: The Violet pattern, from BlueGingerDoll, was given to me in exchange for testing the original version last fall. This post assesses the final pattern, not that tested version.