Miss Wendy Goes To The Park

Friends, I am thrilled. Friday, I finished this dress, which I'm dubbing The Wendy Dress. At first glance, it may seem kind of boring. What's so great about a brown flannel dress? Well, it's super cozy, which is lovely this time of year. However, the real pièce de résistance? A Peter Pan collar!

If you follow me on Pinterest, you are well aware of my Lost-Boy-inspired collar obsession. My sewing inspiration boards should probably be retitled 1000 Images of Peter Pan Collars. I love them. If every dress in my closet had such a collar, my life would be complete. Thus, it was ridiculous that I hadn't yet drafted one myself. Following up with my 2012 Intentions (#4. Challenge myself), I decided to fix that with this project.

Since I'm not a total daredevil, this collar experiment was performed with some unloved stash fabric. This brown cotton flannel is one I bought in The Great Fabric Mart Sale, for something ridiculous like $2.50/yard. While it is quite warm, it's also brown. Not even the subtle green and chocolate stripes in the plaid made me love this fabric. Thus, the opportunity to jazz it up with a coordinating green collar & fabric-covered buttons proved irresistible.

A collar! Buttons! Joy!

For the pattern, I wanted something simple. I loved the high neckline of Colette's Peony Dress and already had the bodice fit perfectly, but opted for the fuller, gathered skirt of Simplicity 2180. They worked together beautifully. (After I chopped five inches off the skirt, anyway.) I did make one slightly unorthodox decision, however, by omitting the Peony sleeves. It's a winter dress and flannel, which makes one think sleeves, but I love to layer. Bulky sleeves beneath a cardigan is not a look I'm a fan of. Thus, for wearability's sake, I opted for a sleeveless style.

The most interesting part of this dress is, naturally, the collar. For tips on collar pattern drafting, I watched the divine Gertie's YouTube video series: Drafting a Peter Pan Collar. I didn't follow the directions precisely, as I made a full collar (there was no lovely button-back to show off), but it proved remarkably helpful. My collar ended up delightfully, perfectly round!

For construction help, I consulted a few sources, but ended up doing it my own way. I sewed the collar to the right side of the bodice, exactly as it would lay, then finished them both together with bias tape. Not only was the inside finish clean, but it allowed the collar to turn perfectly.

In the back of the dress, the collar runs the whole length of the bodice. Since there was enough room in this pattern, I omitted the back zipper, in order to preserve the integrity of my imagined collar design. I have no problem wriggling in and out of a dress, if it means I end up with a full working collar. At the last minute, I also decided to add three fabric-covered buttons down the bodice in the same green as the collar. With the high Peony neckline. the bodice needed something else to balance out that sea of brown. Also, I just love buttons.

Back bodice & collar (Wrinkled, as I wore this all day and couldn't face ironing it again afterwards for poor Hedy.)

In the end, The Wendy Dress is a very wearable little garment. It is the last of my true winter sewing, as it feels like spring is just around the corner here in Texas. However, I can easily see myself making this in a few warmer weather iterations. Alas, I do fear a great tide of Peter Pan collars is in my future. They're almost too easy not to add to dresses!

Also: shoe love! These are the Jada heel from Naya Shoes, which can currently be had for a song, in all colors, at DSW. I love my burgandy ones, but they had a lovely dark teal option as well. Who could resist such a gorgeous vintage-inspired heel?

A Well-Intentioned New Year

Happy New Year, loves! Was your final night of 2011 filled with champagne, sparkly dresses, and merriment? I hope so!

Confession: I spent last night in pajamas watching Disney movies. Don't despair. It was wonderful. I was surrounded by family whom I don't see enough, my homemade brownies, and tons of laughter. A delightful way to ring in 2012, if I do say so myself.


As always, however, a new year brings a certain amount of introspection. Regrets from the departing year or hopes for the coming one tend to marinate in one's mind. Normally, I'm not one for New Year's resolutions. I can be a bit hyper-rational, so it's always seemed a bit strange to make goals on the same day every year. One can accomplish something just as well starting on September 22nd as January 1st, after all. Yet, this year feels different. 2012 just sounds promising, doesn't it? I'm a bit giddy at all the possibilities that this year might bring. It makes me want to help things along.

Elsewhere on the web, Shivani (from the lovely blog, Pins & Needles) referenced the idea of New Year's Intentions. I quite like that. Intentions sound less threatening than resolutions, don't you think? They're things you want to do, but won't make you feel like an utter failure if a few fall away. To that end, I've made a list of my sewing intentions for this year. These are mostly little goals I've been ruminating on for awhile, regarding where I see both my sewing and this blog going. January 1st, it seems, is a lovely day for starting as I intend to go on.

1. Blog Regularly - My blogging habits are pathetic. Last year, I used the excuse that I hate photographing my projects. That's ridiculous. Sure the primping and posing is a bit much, but if I spent half as much time on blogs as I do on Pinterest, this would be a much livelier little site. This year, I plan on blogging more, be it on my new projects or lovely style inspirations. Lame excuses need not apply.
2. Learn How To Use My Camera - I have a new camera! Now, if only I knew how to use it properly. Luckily, I've bought The Crafter's Guide to Taking Great Photos by Heidi Adnum, which promises to teach me what the heck aperture means. The quality of my outfit photos should, hopefully, improve accordingly.
3. Be Thoughtful With Projects - Since learning to sew in 2010, I've been guilty of that most cardinal of beginner sewist mistakes: not taking my time. I've tried patterns I knew wouldn't work for my body type and been a bit indiscriminate with fabric shopping. This year, I'm planning to only sew things that truly speak to my personal taste. This means more embellishments, more classic details, using mostly fabrics from my stash, and finally sewing those vintage patterns I own.
   
4. Challenge Myself - There are so many dressmaking skills I'm dying to learn. This will be the year I learn them! There will be self-drafted Peter Pan collars, proper pin-tucks, and underlined lace dresses. It's time to become more academic about my sewing.
   
5. Comment More - I read blogs. A lot of blogs. Unfortunately, I don't comment on that many. It's a side effect of using Google reader - it's just too easy not to click through. This year, I will let someone know when I think they're neat. Sincere compliments make the world go 'round.
   
6. Sew One Garment A Week - This is a biggie. Not only do I intend to sew more, I intend to sew 52 new items this year. I can easily and happily sew for one hour each night, which means there's no point not sewing something new each week. There have been months I've sewn 7 things with no problem, then been lazy for too many weeks after. With efficiency and a steady pace, this year I will always have a project in the works.
   
7. Be Happy - This covers it all, really. I want to be happier this year - with both myself and my garments. I need to get used to seeing myself in pictures, without hating 99% of the shots, and sew things that I truly love. All the other intentions play directly into this one. Hopefully, my 2012 will be even more joyful than last year, because of them.
   

Miss Cora Loves Liberty: Simplicity 2215

Good evening, friends! I just returned home from The Great Danielson Phoenix Adventure - a trip filled with adorable babies (well, one, but she's a doozy:- my cousin's brand new Lovely Little Kate), family bonding (i.e.: overly competitive Scrabble matches) and general Christmas merriment. It was, unfortunately, not filled with sewing. I just couldn't face dragging my sewing machine through airport security. Think of the lines! Think of the TSA agents poking the bobbin winder! It just wouldn't do.

Though I briefly contemplated begging my parents to take it on their drive out, I decided a week without sewing wouldn't kill me. It didn't - quite. Luckily, I did have a new toy to mitigate the withdrawals. My mother, in all her infinite awesomeness, gave me a Nikon P7000 for Christmas! She's the coolest, I know. The Nikon is one of the three cameras I've been dithering between for the last month - a higher end point & shoot with lots of manual options. It is amazing. If one could legally marry a camera, I'd seriously consider it.

So, what project should I shoot first? I went with a dress that's gone unphotographed for far too long, my Liberty Tana Lawn version of Simplicity 2215, a pattern previously blogged about in seersucker. I adore this dress. The lawn is an awesome vintage Liberty print, all autumnal hues of red, green, brown, and gold.

Isn't it dishy? The feel of it is even better - so soft, it's like buttah. Y'all, I might actually have a problem now. Once you sew Liberty, how can anything else possibly hold a candle? If I ever win the lottery, I will sew nothing but, I promise you now. As for the pattern itself - surprise! - I still love it. You know how I feel about shirt-dresses, after all...

First new camera shot! Isn't it great? Let's all just swoon together, shall we?

Unbelted! I like it better belted, as it feels just a little Maria von Trapp without one.

Bodice! The buttons are a light wood of some sort, which were the result of a harrowing trip to the JoAnn Fabrics button aisle. There was a lot of angst. In the end, I liked how these mostly blend in, while still giving a nature girl vibe to the whole dress.

So, that's it. New camera! Liberty! General dress love! It was a good Christmas. How were your holidays, friends? Any new sewing gadgets or great fabrics waiting for you under the tree?

Miss Violet Comes Home: Darling Ranges Dress

Readers, I'm having an affair.

Don't worry! No need to rush to the nearest fainting couch. My affaire de coeur is of the sartorial sort. You see, I'm completely infatuated with the Darling Ranges dress from Megan Nielsen. It's my new favorite pattern! Since finishing this version at the beginning of November, I've worn it a dozen times. What's more, two other iterations lie in various stages of completion on my sewing table. It's just such a great dress. Let's break it down, shall we?

Darling Ranges is the first mainstream pattern from Megan Nielsen, an indie fashion designer (whose newest collection is to die for!) who previously released a line of maternity patterns. The design is straight from her Fall 2010 collection, Perth. The pattern first came to my attention, after the lovely Anna, from Paunnet, posted her enchanting sapphire version. With its three-quarter length sleeves, gathered waist, and fully-buttoned front, it was calling my name. I do love a shirt-dress! So, I ordered the pattern, chose some fabric from my stash, and set off to make it mine.

First off, the pattern arrived in amazingly short order. It wasn't even five days, in between order and delivery. Ms. Nielsen won me over with that, but - holy cow! - did it get better. The pattern itself is of the highest quality I've ever used - the paper was thick, but still pliable, and the lines were bold and clear. Infinitely better than regular pattern paper! It also comes in a velcro-tab envelope, easy to open and close. What's more, if you like to cut multiple sizes, the differing sizes don't overlap. If you cut an Large, but need to make a Small later? No worries! Just trace it off. But in the meantime, you can cut into the pattern right off, instead of tracing. (If, of course, you're making the larger size. I was. It was awesome.)


Construction was, similarly, enjoyable. Nielsen's directions are well-written, clear, and easy enough for even the newest beginner. Personally, I relished the subtle design details, like the bias trim finished neckline and the elastic-cased sleeves. There were no irritating facings to deal with! No need for that awful iron-on interfacing! Joy!


For fabric, I used a cotton voile bought from Fabric Mart during one of their blowout sales. It's a lovely violet, with a black & white geometric print. It was also $1.99/yard. Total steal. The buttons were a bit more difficult. Originally, I covered my own buttons in a light gray, but they blended in too much for my taste. After quite a bit of hunting, I found some vintage black bead buttons that were just the thing. They don't show up in pictures at all, but they're delightful. I love the slightly retro feel they give the dress. With my leftover fabric, I'm even considering making a fabric covered belt, just to keep up the theme.

Things I Love:

• The sleeves! Y'all, I don't know what sort of magic Megan Nielsen conjured, but these are the most comfortable sleeves I've ever sewn. They aren't too poofy or too tight. Plus, the elastic casing at the elbows was such an easy finish!
  
• The pattern itself! In both design and function, this pattern was an absolute dream. I hadn't realized how much I hate pattern paper, until I wasn't having to fight with any.
  
• The buttons! I love a button. I love a vintage button even more. They're, by far, my favorite closure option.
  
• The bias-bound neckline! I love neat finishes and, while the neckline pattern looked a bit complicated, it was a breeze with the lovely directions and some navy bias tape.
  

Things I Changed:

• Made a 2" FBA, then a 1" Narrow Waist Adjustment to make up for the added width from the FBA.
  
• Omitted the back tie. I wear all my dresses with belts, so the back tie was really unnecessary, plus would have added a bit of bulk.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Add another .25" to the FBA. I really like how it fits now, but since it's mainly a fall/winter dress, the close bodice fit hinders layering a bit. Just another bit of fullness would be ideal.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• As with all shirt-dress patterns, marking is so important. Since there is no separate placket, but instead a self-fold design, it's even more so for Darling Ranges. I would suggest using tailor's chalk or transfer paper to make sure your placket lines are visible and straight.
• The neckline is a bit tricky. Okay, to be honest, it looks terribly complicated from the pattern itself. No worries! If you follow the directions, and breathe, it will all turn out just right.
  

Fabric & Notions:

• Cotton Voile - Fabric Mart - $1.99/yard
• 12 vintage black buttons
• Navy bias tape

Fun fact, kittens! If you love the Darling Ranges dress, get excited. Megan Nielsen has another mainstream pattern releasing soon: the Banksia top! A Peter Pan collar...I swoon, I sigh.

A Photo Is Worth...

I've been musing about cameras lately. This is an inevitability, when writing any sort of blog that requires photographic support. Sewists (sewers, seamstresses, sew nerds, or what have you), in particular, take a lot of pictures. It can't be avoided.

Unless your name is Mary, of course. I've been avoiding the hell out of it lately, y'all. There are seven projects hanging undocumented in my closet. SEVEN! Every time I wear one, I feel a bit like I'm cheating on the blog. Shouldn't I be reviewing these patterns? Don't they deserve love too? They do. It's just...that would require me to take pictures. Though I normally cite primping as why I'm photographically lazy, it's simpler than that. I hate my camera. Despite great reviews and all the bells-and-whistles, the resulting pictures are never of the quality I desire. They look terribly unprofessional compared to some of my favorite bloggers' shots. Despite the ridiculous amount of snaps I take, I only end up with a handful of useable photos. Useable, not perfect.

So, here's my dilemma - what do I do about it? I need a new camera. That is painfully obvious. It's not so easy, however. Do I get another, better point-and-shoot? Do I splurge on a DSLR? If I do get a DSLR, how do I learn to use the blasted thing? Do I wait for this fancy Lytro camera everyone keeps talking about? The possibilities are distressingly endless. In the end, I just want to be sure of two things:

• Is this camera relatively easy to use?
• Will I look better in photos than I currently do?

That's it. Sadly, most reviewers don't include a Photos for Sewing Blogs rating. I will have to do gobs of research and comparisons instead. Like all good studies, I'm starting with a poll. What kind of camera do you use? How do you feel about it, quality of picture wise? In a different vein, are there any bloggers whose photos you particularly enjoy? I am desperately seeking guidance, friends - anything to make the photo process less harrowing.

Miss Ruby Draws The Line: Colette Peony

Why hello, lovelies! Despite what one might think from visiting this blog lately, I have been sewing up a storm for my fall palette. One of my latest creations is an initial version of the new Colette pattern, the Peony dress. I say initial, because...I'm not in love with it. The blame for this, I place on the fabric, not the pattern. I used a cotton poplin from Fabric Mart, which I got for $1.99/yard on sale. The price should have been a sign. This is not the best quality poplin. It's a bit thin, doesn't have great body, and clings to every single bump. Despite the perfect fit of the dress, I have to wear Spanx under this, so the skirt doesn't look lumpy. Spanx requirements do not a perfect dress make.

That being said, however, I really do love the Peony pattern. The bodice is absolutely adorable - shapely, great bateau neckline, and endless possibilities for embellishment. Personally, I took my new pintuck presser foot for a test drive on this pattern. I added five corded pintucks to the center front, using Colette's tutorial. Despite the daunting new foot, this ended up being the easiest technique ever. Which is great news. I love a pintuck! They may be on everything I sew from now on.

Pintucks! (Also, there seems to be a theme here in which I'm holding my shoulders at strange angles. I can assure you that those stress lines are not present when I actually stand like a normal person. I really need to get a new pose, kittens.)

Enough about the pintuck revelation, back to the Peony details! So, the bodice? Wonderful. So simple, it could easily be used as a pattern sloper for other designs. The skirt is also pretty basic - an easy, slightly-fitted A-line. If you carry any weight in the middle, or prefer to gloss over that area of the body, I would try this pattern in a sturdier fabric. Because it is a closer fit, one could easily end up with my Spanx problem.

There is one part of the pattern which I can't give any advice one, however. I chose not to make the cummerbund that comes with the dress. I own 23 belts (yeah, I counted), which means I'm never lacking waist-accenting accessories. It seemed like a waste of time to make a cummerbund which I'll rarely wear with the dress. So, I skipped it. If I were making it for a special occasion, I may experiment with a contrast fabric, but for a day dress, I like belts instead. Overall, the Peony is a great basic dress pattern. Currently, my favorite way to wear it is under a blazer, with tights and boots (my adorable new lace-up Clarks, specifically).

Things I Love:

• The neckline! I love a bateau neck and this one fits the dress proportions very well.
• The pintucks! Okay, I added them myself, but I still love them. I highly suggest trying a corded pintuck, if you haven't yet.
• The versatility! This is really a pattern that's begging to be personalized. It would look great with lace accents or contrast bias tape. Personally, I'm thinking of switching out the skirt for a fuller one and making it out of a lovely autumnal pique from my stash.
  

Things I Changed:

• 1" FBA - Colette's patterns are based on a C cup, so I needed to alter it for my DD bust.
  
• Added pintucks. Which I've gone on about ad nauseum, I know.
• Finished the neckline with bias tape. Y'all know how I feel about facings. It's become almost standard for me to replace them with bias tape at this point. It's just such a cleaner finish.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Use a heavier-weight fabric.
• I'm considering adding a bit more volume to the skirt. I just think it would be a bit more flattering to my hips.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Not a one. Kittens, this dress is a breeze. You're not going to find an easier pattern to construct. A few darts, a tiny bit of gathering, and you're done. As with all Colette patterns, the instructions are concise and clear, so there's minimal chance for error.
  

Fabric & Notions:

• Scarlet cotton/lycra stretch poplin - $1.99/yd from Fabric Mart
• Scarlet cotton purl embroidery thread, for corded pintucks
• Red bias tape