Miss Esme and the Mummy

 Hello, lovely readers! Hope you're doing well on this fine spring day. What's that you say? It's February, Mary, so it can't be spring no matter which hemisphere you're in? Well, tell that to the weather. Someday, I will write a blog post without mentioning how strange Texas weather is. Today is not that day. Y'all, it's in the eighties. In February! I know we have a reputation for heat, but normally we get a winter, I swear. I shan't complain, however, because...it means more dress-wearing!

My newest creation is The Esme Dress. Last week, The Sew Weekly charged its contributors with the task of recreating a look we loved. I didn't even need to look through my inspiration folder. There was one dress I'd been dying to knock off. If you read vintage fashion blogs, you know of Esme and the Laneway, a slice of retro delight from Down Under. A few weeks ago, the lovely Esme modeled her "Grey Buttons Summer Dress," and I fell in love. With its sweetheart bodice detail, that line of tiny buttons, and - oh, heavens! - the piping, the dress was all my retro-fueled daydreams come true.

Of course, this being a dress Esme had picked up in 2006, I couldn't exactly find one of my own. So, I set off into the wild world of pattern drafting to make it myself...

Obviously, the bodice was the toughest part. After much deliberating, I decided to draft a mash up of two patterns I already had fitted - the Colette Peony and the Colette Macaron. The Peony would be my base, while the Macaron would lend its sweetheart bust and rounded neckline. If anyone is interested, I can do a future post featuring the steps I went through and how the pattern pieces turned out, but I ended up with: a yoke, an inside button placket, and the main bodice. I piped the seam between the yoke and the button placket, then joined the yoke and main bodice with the buttons themselves. It's a pretty great bodice replica, if I do say so myself. The curve of the Macaron was just perfect!

My fabric choice was easy. I've had this lovely pale yellow floral in my stash for a year now, waiting for the perfect project to come along. With its chocolate-outlined white flowers, it had the perfect vintage look that this dress needed. I made coordinating fabric-covered chocolate buttons and piping, just so I knew everything would match perfectly.

 The skirt is directly from the Peony, with a little added width drafted in, since I decided to turn the original gathers into pleats. Thanks to fabric constraints, I couldn't fully pleat the skirt, but I added a few angled pleats on both the front and back. Oh, and piping, of course! During construction, I couldn't decide if I would prefer The Esme Dress belted or plain, so I added more chocolate piping to the waistline. A girl must have her waist definition, after all. Naturally, I've since decided I prefer it belted, so...it's a totally hidden detail. But y'all will appreciate it, right?

 

Well, hello piping! You're sure looking fabulous!

Also, check out that invisible side zipper. I do love when they're actually, you know, invisible.

Onto the All-Important Details... 

 

Things I Love:

•  The silhouette! It's 1960's dreamy. There's something about the buttons mixed with that A-line skirt that is so mod, don't you think?
• The buttons! Of course. The entire reason I made this dress was for that adorable sweetheart row of buttons. They were totally worth it. I'm in dress love.

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

•  The skirt. I really think this bodice style deserves the full box pleats of Esme's original version. Next time, I will use a 4 yard cut of fabric, instead of a 2.5 yard, so I can fit them in.
• The fit. I wish the bodice were just a hair snugger. Because it's fully lined, altering it at this point would just be headache, but my darts will be wider next time around.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions: 

• Piping can be such a bastard, y'all. The best way I've found to do it is to baste the piping in place ahead of time, with your basting line exactly where you want the visible piping to end. Then, when you join the pattern pieces, stitch precisely along your basting line. Voila! Perfect piping!

Notions & Fabric:

• Yellow floral stretch cotton - Gorgeous Fabrics - $9/yard
• Brown cotton poplin for lining - Fabric Mart - $1.99/yard
• White 12-inch invisible zipper
• 15 fabric-covered buttons
• 3 yards handmade chocolate piping

Time to Make:

• 10 hours, thanks to ye olde buttons and piping

Title Explanation:

When originally taking photos of this dress, it was raining. So, I hied myself over to my parents' house to make use of their lovely sunroom. Which, incidentally, is also where one of my mother's favorite things dwells...her mummy, Nefret. Never fear, dear readers, the mummy is completely fake and originally bought from The Martha Stewart Catalog, of all places. We are big Halloween fans in my family, so Nefret was originally displayed for that holiday but...my mother and I are also Egyptology geeks. We just couldn't face putting her in the attic. So, she's become a permanent fixture. For each holiday, Nefret is dressed appropriately, whether in a sequined Santa hat or with her very own Easter basket. Yes, we are a bit ghoulish around these parts...

If it's off-putting to you, don't worry, you're not alone. One of my dearest friends from high school used to refuse to sit with her back turned toward Nefret, for fear of what she might do. Personally, she just makes me wish to reread Crocodile on the Sandbank, whenever I see her.

 Nefret and I

 How does one pose with a mummy? Well, there are options...

Postscript: What do y'all think of the new blog look? I've been dissatisfied with my original efforts for some time, so I updated it in my spare time this week. Something a bit more modern was called for, don't you think?

Miss Wendy Goes To The Park

Friends, I am thrilled. Friday, I finished this dress, which I'm dubbing The Wendy Dress. At first glance, it may seem kind of boring. What's so great about a brown flannel dress? Well, it's super cozy, which is lovely this time of year. However, the real pièce de résistance? A Peter Pan collar!

If you follow me on Pinterest, you are well aware of my Lost-Boy-inspired collar obsession. My sewing inspiration boards should probably be retitled 1000 Images of Peter Pan Collars. I love them. If every dress in my closet had such a collar, my life would be complete. Thus, it was ridiculous that I hadn't yet drafted one myself. Following up with my 2012 Intentions (#4. Challenge myself), I decided to fix that with this project.

Since I'm not a total daredevil, this collar experiment was performed with some unloved stash fabric. This brown cotton flannel is one I bought in The Great Fabric Mart Sale, for something ridiculous like $2.50/yard. While it is quite warm, it's also brown. Not even the subtle green and chocolate stripes in the plaid made me love this fabric. Thus, the opportunity to jazz it up with a coordinating green collar & fabric-covered buttons proved irresistible.

A collar! Buttons! Joy!

For the pattern, I wanted something simple. I loved the high neckline of Colette's Peony Dress and already had the bodice fit perfectly, but opted for the fuller, gathered skirt of Simplicity 2180. They worked together beautifully. (After I chopped five inches off the skirt, anyway.) I did make one slightly unorthodox decision, however, by omitting the Peony sleeves. It's a winter dress and flannel, which makes one think sleeves, but I love to layer. Bulky sleeves beneath a cardigan is not a look I'm a fan of. Thus, for wearability's sake, I opted for a sleeveless style.

The most interesting part of this dress is, naturally, the collar. For tips on collar pattern drafting, I watched the divine Gertie's YouTube video series: Drafting a Peter Pan Collar. I didn't follow the directions precisely, as I made a full collar (there was no lovely button-back to show off), but it proved remarkably helpful. My collar ended up delightfully, perfectly round!

For construction help, I consulted a few sources, but ended up doing it my own way. I sewed the collar to the right side of the bodice, exactly as it would lay, then finished them both together with bias tape. Not only was the inside finish clean, but it allowed the collar to turn perfectly.

In the back of the dress, the collar runs the whole length of the bodice. Since there was enough room in this pattern, I omitted the back zipper, in order to preserve the integrity of my imagined collar design. I have no problem wriggling in and out of a dress, if it means I end up with a full working collar. At the last minute, I also decided to add three fabric-covered buttons down the bodice in the same green as the collar. With the high Peony neckline. the bodice needed something else to balance out that sea of brown. Also, I just love buttons.

Back bodice & collar (Wrinkled, as I wore this all day and couldn't face ironing it again afterwards for poor Hedy.)

In the end, The Wendy Dress is a very wearable little garment. It is the last of my true winter sewing, as it feels like spring is just around the corner here in Texas. However, I can easily see myself making this in a few warmer weather iterations. Alas, I do fear a great tide of Peter Pan collars is in my future. They're almost too easy not to add to dresses!

Also: shoe love! These are the Jada heel from Naya Shoes, which can currently be had for a song, in all colors, at DSW. I love my burgandy ones, but they had a lovely dark teal option as well. Who could resist such a gorgeous vintage-inspired heel?

Miss Ruby Draws The Line: Colette Peony

Why hello, lovelies! Despite what one might think from visiting this blog lately, I have been sewing up a storm for my fall palette. One of my latest creations is an initial version of the new Colette pattern, the Peony dress. I say initial, because...I'm not in love with it. The blame for this, I place on the fabric, not the pattern. I used a cotton poplin from Fabric Mart, which I got for $1.99/yard on sale. The price should have been a sign. This is not the best quality poplin. It's a bit thin, doesn't have great body, and clings to every single bump. Despite the perfect fit of the dress, I have to wear Spanx under this, so the skirt doesn't look lumpy. Spanx requirements do not a perfect dress make.

That being said, however, I really do love the Peony pattern. The bodice is absolutely adorable - shapely, great bateau neckline, and endless possibilities for embellishment. Personally, I took my new pintuck presser foot for a test drive on this pattern. I added five corded pintucks to the center front, using Colette's tutorial. Despite the daunting new foot, this ended up being the easiest technique ever. Which is great news. I love a pintuck! They may be on everything I sew from now on.

Pintucks! (Also, there seems to be a theme here in which I'm holding my shoulders at strange angles. I can assure you that those stress lines are not present when I actually stand like a normal person. I really need to get a new pose, kittens.)

Enough about the pintuck revelation, back to the Peony details! So, the bodice? Wonderful. So simple, it could easily be used as a pattern sloper for other designs. The skirt is also pretty basic - an easy, slightly-fitted A-line. If you carry any weight in the middle, or prefer to gloss over that area of the body, I would try this pattern in a sturdier fabric. Because it is a closer fit, one could easily end up with my Spanx problem.

There is one part of the pattern which I can't give any advice one, however. I chose not to make the cummerbund that comes with the dress. I own 23 belts (yeah, I counted), which means I'm never lacking waist-accenting accessories. It seemed like a waste of time to make a cummerbund which I'll rarely wear with the dress. So, I skipped it. If I were making it for a special occasion, I may experiment with a contrast fabric, but for a day dress, I like belts instead. Overall, the Peony is a great basic dress pattern. Currently, my favorite way to wear it is under a blazer, with tights and boots (my adorable new lace-up Clarks, specifically).

Things I Love:

• The neckline! I love a bateau neck and this one fits the dress proportions very well.
• The pintucks! Okay, I added them myself, but I still love them. I highly suggest trying a corded pintuck, if you haven't yet.
• The versatility! This is really a pattern that's begging to be personalized. It would look great with lace accents or contrast bias tape. Personally, I'm thinking of switching out the skirt for a fuller one and making it out of a lovely autumnal pique from my stash.
  

Things I Changed:

• 1" FBA - Colette's patterns are based on a C cup, so I needed to alter it for my DD bust.
  
• Added pintucks. Which I've gone on about ad nauseum, I know.
• Finished the neckline with bias tape. Y'all know how I feel about facings. It's become almost standard for me to replace them with bias tape at this point. It's just such a cleaner finish.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Use a heavier-weight fabric.
• I'm considering adding a bit more volume to the skirt. I just think it would be a bit more flattering to my hips.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Not a one. Kittens, this dress is a breeze. You're not going to find an easier pattern to construct. A few darts, a tiny bit of gathering, and you're done. As with all Colette patterns, the instructions are concise and clear, so there's minimal chance for error.
  

Fabric & Notions:

• Scarlet cotton/lycra stretch poplin - $1.99/yd from Fabric Mart
• Scarlet cotton purl embroidery thread, for corded pintucks
• Red bias tape
  

New Colette Patterns!

As y'all know very well, I'm a Colette Patterns fangirl. So, it was with pure delight that I read Sarai's blog this afternoon previewing their three new designs for autumn. Let's discuss, shall we?


First up, there's a new blouse pattern, Jasmine. It's a tie-front bias-cut blouse, without closures, and with two sleeve options, one elbow-length and gathered, one shorter with a notched band. I love this pattern. A lot. There are some silks picked up in New York this summer, that I've been angsting how to use. I think I'll try this in a cotton voile, make any necessary changes, then get started on a coral crepe de chine version with a contrasting floral georgette bow. Can. Not. Wait!



Colette's second pattern offering is this lovely little cigarette pant, the Clover. Have you ever seen a pattern more suited to an Audrey Hepburn film? They're so, so cute! I've never sewn a pair of trousers, but the description of these look remarkably beginner-friendly. The design, on the other hand, may be one of those best left in the So Cute In Theory, But Not Flattering For My Body category. This is the only of the three I didn't immediately pre-order, for that reason. No doubt, however, I'll see some lovely versions and start clamoring for my own.


Lastly, we come to the pièce de résistance, at least in my opinion, the Peony dress. A sheath dress with lovely lines, the Peony comes in two sleeve lengths with a cummerbund waist tie. It's a simple pattern, but I'm already imagining the possibilities for embellishment. With fall just around the corner, this is a great dress for heavy jewel-toned twills or private school worthy wool plaids. I'm thinking I might need both options...

So, what do you think about the new Colette designs? Are there any other Fall 2011 patterns you're dying to try out? This is my favorite season to sew things for, so I'm just itching to see people's autumnal creations. With patterns like these, it's going to be a very cute season, indeed.

[all images sourced from Colette Patterns]

Miss Ivy Gets All Buttoned Up: Colette Sorbetto

Friends, you did not read that title incorrectly. This really is a Sorbetto top. It's not from the main branch of the family, mind you, since it's missing that lovely center pleat, but it's definitely a distant cousin. I suppose one could call this the Scarsdale Sorbetto. You know, like those relatives who show up for family reunions, but to whom no one can quite remember how they're related? I don't actually possess any of those relatives, but if I did I'm sure they would be from Scarsdale.

Anyway, the Scarsbetto. She has pintucks. She has buttons. Her buttons actually function. You can see why the main branch of the family looks askance at her during afternoon croquet. After all, the whole point of the Sorbetto pattern is that it is an easy, no-fuss, no-closure blouse. The original is truly lovely, but for my second iteration, I couldn't resist a little overzealous experimentation.

Let's talk process, shall we? How does such a creature come to exist? Well, it all started with the buttons. You may recall the buttons on my last Sorbetto - little fabric-covered crimson ones. They were adorable with the blouse, really, but...they didn't work. Buttons are always delightful, but if they don't actually button, they're just sad little notions serving no purpose. How dreadful for them, don't you think? (And, yes, I was that child who anthropomorphized my M&Ms. Little Mary just knew those damn red M&Ms were always ganging up on the tan ones. The poor dears.) So, I resolved to fix that with my second iteration. This Sorbetto was going to button.

And so it does. Getting there was a bit of an ordeal, however. My plan was rather straightforward - I'd measured for the plackets and button spacings and everything. Unfortunately, I neglected to factor that ever-irritating button issue- they tend to gape on large busts. My original Sorbetto FBA was perfect for a no-closure blouse, but buttons need a bit more room. When fitting it mid-sew, I realized my error. Enter the pintucks. To add a bit more width, I decided to add two extra panels to the middle of the blouse, then hide the seams with pintucks. It added a bit more work time, but I love the look. I couldn't get a proper picture of the fit, but it is practically perfect. Hooray!

As a finishing touch, the Scarsbetto has white bias-tape binding on the neckline, sleeves, and hem. It sets off very well against the white-and-seafoam striped shirting I bought from Fabric Mart. With wide-leg white pants and espadrilles, it's divinely reminiscent of the 1930's. Well, it would if I looked a bit more like Katherine Hepburn, anyway. Today, I did the unthinkable and just wore it with jeans. I love it either way. The buttons add the perfect bit of interest and are definitely a concept I'll be revisiting soon. I can't help thinking this would be a lovely little September dress... Perhaps with a fitted waistband and gathered skirt?

[Note: To enlarge any picture, simply click it!]

Miss Ivy Rides a Vespa: Colette Sorbetto

Good evening, lovelies! Did you have a wonderful weekend? I certainly did, working on a quick project that had me posing in front of ye olde bookshelf again. After seeing all the adorable versions of Colette's latest free pattern, the Sorbetto blouse, I decided to whip up one of my own.

Despite the simplicity of the blouse - with only two darts, one box pleat, and no closures - there were a few new techniques for me in this project. First off, the pattern is online, instead of in a traditional envelope, which means: printing, cutting, and taping the thing together. Not going to lie, I've put off Burdastyle patterns in an effort to avoid this situation exactly. The whole idea of piecing and taping dozens of computer pages sounded horrid. The Sorbetto and its cuteness won me over, however, and - surprise! - I didn't mind these steps at all. Maybe it was due to the number of pages, only 15 in all, but it took me just 30 minutes to assemble the pattern. Not bad at all, especially when the outcome is so lovely!

The two other new techniques both involved the bias tape finish. Not only did I try exposed bias facings for the first time, but I made my own bias tape, as well. Fancy, non? Even better, it was a total breeze. Using Sarai's tutorial on continuous bias tape, a Simplicity bias tape tool, and my trusty iron, I used a bit of my extra fabric to make the bindings. Y'all, I think I'm addicted. I can't imagine using facings ever again. Why would I, when I can make my own matching bias tape?

As an extra finishing touch, I also added fabric-covered buttons down the box pleat. In a coordinating cardinal red, they really set off the floral lawn I used. I'm a total sucker for buttons, even of the unusable variety.

Buttons and bias tape and pleats, oh my!

When it comes to the blouse itself, this is another winning Colette pattern. Despite not having sewn any up until now, I'm a rabid fan of tank tops. If I were to have a uniform, it would consist ofvery feminine tank tops, paired with cardigans and full skirts. After sewing up the Sorbetto, I may have even more uniform options - there are so many possibilities for this pattern. I also have a dozen two-yard cuts of shirting just waiting to be made into embellished little tops. If the delightful Mena has seven Sorbettos, we all should, don't you think?

Things I Love:

• The Pleat! Aren't box pleats divine? I love interesting details on blouses and this is an especially lovely one. Every tank top needs such style.
  
• The Fabric Usage! Even with the extra length I added, this blouse used less than two yards of fabric. If you have a petite torso, or like your blouses a little shorter, the 1 1/2 prescribed yards would be perfectly right. With such scanty fabric requirements, it's hard not to want this shirt in fine silks, isn't it?
  
• The Exposed Bias Facing! I've already raved about this detail, but it's truly lovely. Not only does it give a clean finish, but a cute one, as well.
  

Things I Changed:

• Added three inches of length. At 5'8'', I tend to find Colette's blouses to be a bit on the short side for me. I tissue fit the Sorbetto and then added length accordingly. The blouse now hits me just right, in line with my hips.
  
• Added fabric-covered buttons as embellishment. I've been studying my favorite RTW styles lately, focusing on the details that make me fall in love with pieces. Embellishment was a big theme among these, which has led me to the decision to add more of it in my own sewing. Buttons certainly fit the bill...and I love them.
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Vary up the embellishments. I do plan on making this shirt a few more times, but plan on spicing it up with pintucks, piping, lace, and other finishing techniques. This is such an easy pattern to not only sew, but alter to your heart's content.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Not a single tricky step in the bunch! Such good news, no?

Fabric Used:

• Cream floral lawn from the Moda Regent Street collection. Purchased for $12/yard. Note: I love this fabric. I own two other lawns from this collection, each equally delightful. The prints are classic and the fabric quality reminiscent of the best Liberty lawns.

My new Sorbetto blouse, as modeled by my new best friend, Hedy the Dress Form.
Note: my hem and buttons are, in fact, straight, despite what this picture would maliciously have you believe.

Mary's Pattern Fail: Colette Ginger

Readers, I'm heartbroken.

This week, finally finished with finals and deadlines, I dove into my stash of new patterns. For my first official garment of summer, I settled on one of Colette Patterns newest offerings: the Ginger skirt. The design is a simple A-line skirt with some waistband variations. At first I was reticent to shell out $16 on such an easy pattern, but the photos were so cute! The bias-cut striped version especially held divine shades of Kate Spade. Visions of lovely, summery skirts filled my mind and I gave into temptation. After all, my wardrobe is decidedly lacking in A-line skirts.

As it turns out, there's a reason for that. They look dreadful on me. Apparently when one has hips the size of small principalities, a skirt that's all angles just doesn't flatter. It's so unflattering, in fact, that I'm not even bothering to hem the thing and treat it as a laundry day skirt. I'm also not posting pictures of me in it for the internet to save in its infinite memory. The last thing I need is to be Googled by a cute Irish golfer, only to have that monstrosity show up. Suffice it to say: I looked like an ice-cream-cone-shaped twill-covered whale. The part of Mary the Blonde Sewist will today be played by a chair, instead.

(Apologies for the wrinkles. I just couldn't bring myself to iron this!)

The nitty gritty details are as follows:

I chose version 2, with the curved waistband, and made it up in a white cotton twill from JoAnn's. (I can't even tell you how thrilled I am that I didn't waste special fabric!) All in all, construction - without hemming - took about 2 hours. This is one quick pattern! Sarai from Colette Patterns specified that she designed both new patterns, Ginger and Violet, for beginners and it's obvious from the directions. Throughout the envelope, there are more helpful tips and definitions than usually found in Colette patterns. If the fit had worked out, this would have been a go-to pattern, just from the ease of construction itself.

Things I Changed:

• Nothing! Unless you count not finishing the hem or the inner waistband, after the shock of trying the skirt on.

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Everything! Well, everything fit-wise anyway. The major problem was that the skirt waistband hit me above my natural waist, which is not a good look for an hourglass shape. Visually, it rather merged my waist and hips area. Were I trying it again, I may go up a few sizes, so the skirt would sit closer to my hips than The Girls.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Make a muslin! Or, my preferred option: use fabric you're not attached to for a wearable muslin.
• When inserting the inner waistband, follow the directions implicitly. Sarai's not lying when she says the instructions are counter-intuitive, but you will be rewarded with a fantastic finish, I promise.
  

Fabric Used:

• White cotton twill from JoAnn's, on sale for $5/yard.
  

This really is a great pattern, even if it didn't work for me. I actually highly recommend it, if only for the instructions on putting in an invisible zipper into a skirt with a waistband. Their technique is one I haven't run across, but that I'll be using from here on out. It makes a much cleaner finish that what I've been doing. Plus, if A-line is your thing, this skirt is lovely - easy to sew, great directions, and endless room for embellishment. Sunni, from A Fashionable Stitch, has already sewn up a delightful version and is hosting a sew-along for beginners using the pattern. I know I'll be looking at the sew-along Flickr group with envy, once people start posting pictures!

For now, I'm tempering my woes with chocolate and - of course - other patterns. Those summer skirts are still haunting me, but this time I'm trying a pattern with a more flattering shape for my body. Friends, what was your last pattern disaster? Did you have vintage dress go awry or a coat pattern that ended up being a sewist's worst nightmare?

Miss Poppy, Queen of May: Colette 1001

Hello, kittens! Sorry for the radio silence around here. Did you know that making sewing plans when you have finals and a looming book deadline is futile? I wish I'd gotten that memo. For the last two weeks, I've stared longingly at my sewing table, wishing I were pleating a skirt instead of re-memorizing the location of the pudendal nerve.

Thankfully, my schedule is wide open for the next few months. I'm positively gleeful thinking about all the projects I can finish! First up on that (very) long list was my lonesome Colette Macaron. Y'all, I don't know why it took me so long to get to this dress. It is so cute! This may actually be my favorite dress I've ever sewn.

The reason for this love lies in the fit. If you're an hourglass shape and haven't sewn this pattern, please go buy a copy! You will not be disappointed. The combination of the tulip skirt and fitted waistband makes for a divine shape. My waist looks infinitesimally small in this. Who doesn't love that?

Even better, putting this dress together was relatively painless. The skirt is symmetrically pleated, with pockets hidden in the outside front pleats, while the bodice is four parts - faux-sweetheart neckline, contrast top, contrast waistband, and sleeves. It sounds like a lot of detailing, but Colette's instructions are thorough and easy-to-follow. The trickiest part was attaching the bodice pieces to one another. If left to my own devices, I would have done the traditional Put right sides together and stitch! method. However, Colette's instructions instead have you fold a hem on the sweetheart piece, then edge stitch it to the contrast piece. While a little more labor-intensive, this does prevent the sweetheart piece from becoming uneven.

Another thing to rave about on the Macaron is the sleeve design. The shaped sleeves not only add visual interest, but may be the most comfortable sleeve shape I've worn. I may add these to a few other non-Macaron dresses in the future. They're both easy and adorable - a perfect combination.

Overall, this is a fantastic pattern. With my summer sewing plans forming, I'm already envisioning a few more iterations of this dress. With the two fabric combination, it's going to be great for using up stash fabrics that I only have a bit of. Plus - come on! - how could I sew just one of a dress that looks this cute?


Things I Changed:

• Substituted a lining for the neckline facings. The last time I used this white pique, the facings were visible on the outside of my garment. Keeping that in mind, I opted for lining the upper Macaron bodice. I made doubles of the two contrast pieces and treated them as a traditional lining, which I catch-stitched to the inside, covering the seams. Not only did it get rid of facings, but the finish is much neater!
  

Things I Will Change Next Time:

• Switch out the invisible zipper for a traditional one. With really fitted bodices, I find invisible zippers to be a bit flimsy. There are probably better quality ones than Coats & Clark, but I'm limited to what's on hand at JoAnn's, which always feel like they're about to break without a lot of ease. I love the fit of this bodice, but it is a bit tricky to zip up, so traditional zip it is!
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Attaching the bodice pieces together is a bit difficult, as I mentioned above. Have a tailors chalk or maker on hand to mark the seam allowances and you'll find it much easier!
• Don't be afraid of the pockets. The idea of inserting pockets into pleats sounds complicated, but if you follow the Colette directions, it will be a breeze. My only advice is to be very careful when slashing your skirt piece - it would be very easy to get overzealous and cut too deep.
  

Fabric Used:

• Shell: Italian poppy print pique from Satin Moon Fabrics in San Francisco.
  
• Contrast: White pique from Hancock Fabrics.
  

Outfit Details:

• Shoes: Denim Fiddle Bow wedges by Clarks
  

The Irksome Case of the Unfinished Objects

Friends, I was a strange child. This probably does not come as a shock to you. Among other things (a persistent belief that I was Nancy Drew, an affinity for dresses sporting cartoon animals, and a true talent for, let's call it, storytelling), I was a big believer in the anthropomorphic fallacy. In my daft little blond head, everything had feelings - stuffed animals, mashed potatoes, flowers. For years, I separated my M&Ms by color, eating the most populous first, until the poor, unloved tan ones were in equal numbers with the rest. It seemed like the fair thing to do. You know, so one color wouldn't feel slighted.

This ties in to sewing, I promise. Even though I now realize candy doesn't have feelings, inanimate objects still have the power to guilt trip me. Take unfinished sewing objects, for example. They drive me crazy. They sit in their little boxes, imploring me to finish them. (Example: I have time, don't it? I was able to make two of the same Lisette dress, for Heaven's sake! Can't I spare old friends a little attention too? Why don't I love them any more?!) For this reason alone, I tend to not accumulate many UFOs. Until now.

At present moment, there are two such projects on my sewing table. They're making me seize up with guilt, every time I even think about starting a new project. Also, they're just plain cute. They deserve to be completed, damn it! So, these are my next two items to conquer.

Unfinished Object #1: Colette Macaron
Raison d'Abandon: Last thing cut out, before deciding to move.

Poor, poor Macaron. There's nothing the matter with her, she was just in the wrong place at the wrong time. Late September was not a good time to be cut out in my household. In a matter of weeks, La Danielson Famile decided to buy a new house, sell the old homestead, and move. As the eldest daughter, I was enlisted to help with this venture...and did not touch my sewing machine for another four months. What's worse, in those months I lost not only Macaron's instruction booklet, but her back midriff piece, as well.

It was all too tempting to move on to other projects, rather than invent directions from scratch. Now that I have more months of sewing under my belt, I feel up to the task. Also, I just reordered the damn pattern. I'm going to trace the midriff piece, but at least I have directions!

Also, this shell fabric is just too wonderful to be cast off on the UFO pile, don't you think? The contrast is just a plain white pique from Hancock, but the shell is an amazing Italian designer pique I picked up from Satin Moon Fabrics in San Francisco. Everyone talks about Britex in SF, but Satin Moon is my absolute favorite fabric store in the city. Possibly in the world. It's a tight, tiny shop in the Richmond District run by two sisters who adore high quality apparel fabric. There are bolts and bolts of Liberty, Swiss cottons, and other wildly interesting fabrics. I actually ended up buying this pique in two different colorways - this bright mix of blues and corals, as well as a more autumnal palette of yellows, browns, and oranges. I have 4 yards of both, so this isn't the last time we'll be seeing this fabric!

Unfinished Object #2: Colette Crepe
Raison d'Abandon: Arrival of Lisette patterns in my mailbox.

Sigh. This one is more of a confessional. You recall that divine Crepe dress I had planned and started for my spring palette? Yeah, I never actually finished it. There's no good excuse for this. I had only the hemming and one or two other little things to do to the dress, but the day I'd planned to do them was the same day the Lisette patterns finally came in the mail.

Y'all know how I feel about the Lisette patterns. I couldn't not rip into them instantly and start sewing. My willpower isn't that strong. That left poor little Crepe shivering in a cardboard UFO box, unloved and unfinished. Which is silly, considering she really is pretty cute. I ended up using some white Swiss dot (the same I used on my Market Blouse, actually) for the bodice, instead of the planned pique. It was a great last minute change, especially considering that summer seems to have arrived early.

So, those are the two projects I plan on reviving from the dead. Do you have any UFOs laying about? Do you feel guilty about them or are you able to put them behind you and move on to brighter projects?

Miss Posy's Literary Salon: Colette 1002

I love Colette Patterns. Was there ever any doubt? The Chantilly dress was an absolute delight to sew. It's exactly what I hoped for: a light, ethereal dress with super flattering lines.

The construction of this dress was, admittedly, a bit involved. The front bodice is gathered where is meets the waistband and the yoke, while the skirt is gathered all the way around. Such extensive gathering produces the kind of neurotic second guessing typically only seen in bomb-defusing movie scenes. Is this even? Is the back too poofy? One actually has to go through this twice, as the lining is a full replica of the dress, rather than a simpler draft. In the end, it's hard to even care about the extra hours spent on the Chantilly, because it's just so darn cute!

Part of the more-involved process of this dress was due to my own additions, namely overcasting the seams and using flexi-lace hem facing. Up until now, I've alternated between finishing seams with bias tape or - embarrassingly - pinking them. It's a sad side-effect of my sergerless state. However, a light bulb went off in my head, after reading Gertie's post on overcasting. I have an overcasting foot & stitch on my machine, so why wasn't I using them? I decided to fix that with the Chantilly. Even though I went through double the amount of thread as usual, it was worth it. My seams look amazing! I will never pink anything again. For that matter, I no longer get envious pangs passing sergers. Overcasting may not be quite the same, but it's a rather wonderful substitute. The other addition I made was the lace hem facing, which is one of my favorite methods of hemming a dress. Not only does it give an invisible hem, when the lace is catch-stitched to the dress, but it's a lovely detail, if you have a Marilyn moment.

As far as the pattern itself goes, it was a dream to sew up, no matter how long it took. Colette's instructions are one of my favorite aspects of their company - clear, concise, and exceedingly helpful. Every step was clear and easy, just needing a little patience to get it right. Oddly enough, however, despite the instructions being awesome, the diagrams were not. The instructions on joining front & back were at odds with the diagrams - the former insisted you leave the left side open for the invisible zipper, while the diagrams made it seem as if you left the right side. A bit confusing, but easy to get around. I live for a proper diagram, so I inserted my zipper on the right side and followed the diagrams. It worked out well, even if it is on the non-traditional side. I also enjoyed stretching my invisible zipper skills again - the Chantilly is another pattern with the invisible zip/pocket combination. It's a skill I'm quickly becoming an expert at!

In the end, it's the details that really make this dress. The fabric is a favorite of mine, a lovely floral shirting littered with blue petals, and was perfect for the delicate nature of the dress. With the curved yoke and shaped midriff, the Chantilly has visual interest to spare. This is definitely a dress which I'll be making again, especially as it only requires 3 yards of fabric. A cute dress with reasonable requirements? It doesn't get better than that!


Things I Changed:

• Added flexi-lace hem facing in white.
  
• Nothing else! Colette uses standard ready-to-wear sizing drafted for larger bust cups. Since my measurements line up precisely to their size guidelines, no alterations were needed for a sublime fit. I love when that happens!
  

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• I'm contemplating cutting out the skirt lining, the next time around, in order to cut bulk. I love this as a summer dress, but my theory in that season is the less layers, the better. Though the lining does allow the skirt to move beautifully, it's optional unless your fashion fabric is sheer.
  

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• The invisible zipper/pocket construction, once again. This pattern is classified as "intermediate" and I think it's this step that really pushes it there. Luckily, the Colette guidelines are crystal clear. As long as you remember to sew the zipper to the long side of the pocket (something that seems elementary, but I've made that mistake before!), then you should be good.
  
• Keeping the skirt front & back pieces is a little tricky. The skirt is a six-gore full skirt and the pieces are just slightly different sizes, enough to matter but not enough to be glaringly obvious. Once again, this is a pattern where over-marking your pieces really pays off.
• Make sure your gathering is even, whatever you do! The bodice is especially dependent on the gathering staying even. If it's not even, the girls don't look even either. That's not a good look for anybody.
  

Fabric Used:

• White & blue floral shirting from Gorgeous Fabrics.
• Cotton blend batiste from Fabric.com - very lightweight, amazing lining fabric.
  

Outfit Details:

• Shoes: Seychelles In With The New pump in navy. (Which I now realize you cannot see!)
  

Additional Pictures:

• Fabric Close-Up
• Alternate Full Views: A, B, C
  
• Front Inside Lining
• Back Inside Lining
• Midriff Lining

Review on Pattern Review

Pattern Musings: Colette Chantilly

This past weekend, I was hit with a mild case of the plague. Consequently, I've been more inclined to look pitiful while watching Veronica Mars than return to my sewing table. Now that I'm starting to feel like a normal person again, it's time to get back on track. Instead of sewing my final planned garment of the Colette Spring Palette Challenge, I'm opting for one of my bonus projects - the Colette Chantilly dress.

For the fabric, I've chosen a lovely blue & white floral cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics. It's actually the same fabric I used for the Sencha blouse, only in a different palette. I have a bit of a thing for small floral prints and this fabric has the added bonus of a lovely drape. It should work really well with all the flowing gathers of this pattern.

Because Colette patterns are standard RTW sizing, I don't have any fitting alterations planned. My measurements line up exactly with Colette's size chart and they are drafted for bigger bust cups. It's such a refreshing change! Now if only Sarai & Co. would release more of their lovely designs soon...

Have you sewn up a Colette Chantilly dress yet? Do you have any suggestions for someone about to dive into the pattern for the first time?

Musings: Colette Crepe

Later this afternoon, I'm diving in to my second Colette Patterns adventure - the Crepe dress. This was one of those revisions to my spring palette, added in because my Simplicity patterns haven't arrived yet, so I needed something else pretty to sew. With all the Crepes that have shown up on blogs and forums, after Gertie's Crepe sew-a-long, ideas for this dress have been spinning around in my brain for weeks.

Even better, Colette just released new pictures of the Crepe -made up in plain white with a turquoise sash and also white with turquoise polka dots. Both dresses prompted a hunt for comparable fabrics. Luckily, I already had a wonderful white pique waiting around, as well as a medium-weight shirting in coral (one of my palette colors!). I could just knock off the Colette inspiration piece completely, making up a white dress with a coral sash, but I've decided to try something a little different. I'm making the bodice up in the pique, but the sash and skirt in the coral shirting. I tried to find evidence of someone else doing the same thing, but it looks like I might be the first. So, fingers crossed that it turns out well!

As far as changes go, I'm not making any. Instead, I'm treating this as a very wearable muslin. With Colette's modern sizing and accommodation toward higher cup sizes, I don't foresee any real fitting problems with this dress. If it works out, I have a pale yellow and white floral in line for this pattern next. If there are any little niggling fit issues, I'll address them for the second time around.

Have you made the Crepe dress yet? Were you part of that fantastic sew-a-long? I'd love to hear about your experiences with this pattern and any suggestions you may have!

Miss Sadie is Sen(cha)sational: Colette 1007

Hello, lovelies! I hope you had a wonderful weekend. It was a glorious 75 and sunny all weekend here in Austin - the perfect weather to wear sunny yellow flowers. Conveniently, it was also the perfect weekend to sew up my Sencha blouse, the second piece for my Spring Palette Challenge.

I didn't do the best job getting pictures of it, so I may have to update in the next few days, but it's adorable. The fabric is a cotton shirting I bought from Gorgeous Fabrics last month and, as one would expect from the name, it really is gorgeous. Little coral, orange, and yellow flowers twine around the white background, making it the perfect fabric for the first few weeks of spring.

Even better than the fabric, if you can believe it, was sewing the pattern itself. Colette Patterns certainly live up to the hype. The instructions were simply worded and well-explained, the diagrams crystal clear, and the pattern pieces themselves well-designed. It's going to be so hard sewing from the Big 4 pattern companies, after this experience.

But let's get down to business, shall we? The nitty, gritty little details of how Sencha became Sadie. Luckily, this blouse was an absolute dream to construct, especially when compared to last week's Alma dress. I did waffle a bit about whether to do a few alterations, but decided to see how the straight size blouse fit first. That's actually my favorite aspect of Colette patterns - they're based on a D-cup bust size, so there's no reason to do an FBA, if you're more well-endowed.

As far as pattern pieces, there were blessedly few. Just the bodice front, two bodice back pieces, and the front and back facings. A scant six pieces of fabric compared to last week's twenty. It's no doubt a sign that I've sewn too many dresses, when my mind is relieved at the pattern inventory staying in the single digits. Even better for the girl in search of a quick and easy sew, there were only tucks to deal with - four on the neckline, four on the front waist, two on the back waist. I'd actually never done a tuck before, just darts and pleats, but they, like their brethren, are very easy to construct.

The only truly tricky part about the Sencha blouse is the back column of buttons. Honestly, however, that's not even terribly tricky. This was my first time sewing buttonholes, but marking them well ensured success. With the Sencha, marking the buttons initially actually does no good, since the wrong side of the fabric is hidden by the time you're ready to button-hole. So, keep the back bodice pieces handy and instead mark the back fold line well.

When it comes to the final product, I love my version of Sencha. It's just the sort of blouse I love - interesting construction details, lovely fabric, and made of gloriously comfortable cotton. Fit-wise, I do have a few picky things that didn't work so well on me. Mainly: the sleeves. They look absolutely adorable in other reviews, but they're a bit of an awkward length for me. The way they attach to the bodice on the inside makes them a bit constricting - I think they'd both be more comfortable and more flattering if they were a couple of inches longer and perhaps not sewn to the bodice. The only other part that bothered me were the neckline facings. In the back, they have a tendency to come up and look uneven. I will probably end up tacking them down to the button fold, since I can pull the blouse over my head anyway.

If you're also new to the Sencha, I've made a list of my tips and tricks learned along the way.

Things I Changed:

• For once, absolutely nothing. With how simple this pattern is, it wouldn't be hard to make up a muslin if you are worried about fit issues, but I didn't see the need after reading other reviews. It helps that there was no FBA to worry about.

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Lengthen the bodice by about an inch. When wearing the blouse today, I did find myself wishing it were a bit longer. When tucked in, it rides up a bit more than I'd like. When not tucked in, it makes my torso look a little short, which I was initially worried about, after seeing other reviewer pictures.
• Lengthen the sleeves by two inches and don't attach them to the bodice. The sleeve shape looks excellent on other reviewers, but hits me in a weird place. I found it not only a bit unflattering, but constricting to movement, as well. Every time I raise my arms too high, the whole blouse follows, because of how the sleeves are constructed.
  
• Tack the neckline facings down in the back. Actually, this is something I still plan to do. It's a common complaint with facings that they don't stay put and it's true in this case also. In the back, it seems to be especially bad, so tomorrow I'm going to tack them down to the button placket. The blouse is easy to slip over my head anyway, so it's an easy solution.

Tricky Steps and Suggestions:

• Mark the buttonholes carefully. That's common sense, I know, but it's especially important in this case, because of easy it would be to have the back bodice end up misaligned. Like I said, the facings already make the back a bit hard to control, but the button placement really helps in keeping it tidy.
• Attaching the sleeves to the bodice is a very counter-intuitive step and not something I've encountered on another pattern. Luckily, the diagram for this step is very well drawn and instructive. The only mistake I made (in the whole construction process, actually) was sewing the sleeves in a complete circle right before this step, instead of leaving the seam free. Since the sleeves do attach to the bodice, the seam needs to be free, in order to fold inward.
  

Musings: Colette Sencha

Good news, lovelies. After a few days of zen breathing and yoga poses, the tremors from sewing my Alma Dress have finally stopped. Which means it's time to sew my next piece for the Colette Spring Palette Challenge! This time, I'm going with something easy - the Colette Patterns Sencha blouse. Not only will I not have to worry about a FBA (yay!), but the pattern is even labeled "Beginner." This bodes well for my sanity, don't you think?

In keeping with my palette colors, the fabric I've chosen is a lovely floral shirting from Gorgeous Fabrics. The mix of marigold, coral, and white fits perfectly into my Emma Woodhouse-inspired wardrobe plans. It also fits the profile of one of my clothing addictions - the delicate floral blouse. My closet is embarrassingly full of these shirts, from ruffled to minimalist and all in springy garden fabrics. What's more, the Sencha has a little extra pretty: back buttons. I've settled on jade green ones, so they stand out against the floral. Something tells me I'm going to love this blouse!

As far as Sencha alterations go, there are blessedly few pattern changes I plan to make. I love the neckline pleats of View 2, so no messing around there. The bodice-embedded sleeves also tend to be super flattering, so no sleeve fiddling to worry about either. Honestly, the only thing I'm considering changing is the length. After looking at quite a few reviews, I've noticed that the Sencha can make one look a bit short-waisted. Since I'm above average height anyway, a little extra length is no doubt a good idea.

Wish me luck, friends! If you've sewed a Sencha up before, do you have any advice for a first-timer?

Musings: Spring Palette

I'm on to step two of the Colette Spring Pattern Challenge. This week's task? Pick out which patterns I plan to make and what fabrics to use.

Choosing the patterns was the easiest part for me. I haven't been sewing all that long, so my stack of To-Sew patterns is sizable. Fabric selection was bit more difficult, if only because of the palette constraints. While I love solid color clothes in reality, it's hard for me to say no to really pretty prints. In theory, I know that prints sometimes look ridiculous in garments, but I'm still all to quick to pick a crazy busy floral over a quality solid fabric. In this, I've allowed myself two floral fabrics, then other mostly solid fabrics. Note: I'm counting seersucker as a solid here. The stripes are tiny, after all. (Excuses, excuses, I know!)


Items to sew:

1. Vogue 8555 - Yellow Dotted Swiss Cotton
2. Simplicity 2250 - Pink & White Cotton Seersucker (Planning blogged here)
   
3. Colette Sencha Blouse - Yellow/Orange Floral Cotton Shirting
4. Sewaholic Pendrell Blouse - White Dotted Swiss Cotton
5. Simplicity 2512 - Indigo Stretch Denim
6. Simplicity 2413 - Blue & White Striped Cotton Voile

Extra Projects:

1. Colette Chantilly Dress - Blue & White Floral Cotton Shirting
2. Simplicity 2443 - Coral Pink Ponteroma Knit

With most of my sewing projects, I like to include something new I haven't tried yet. Since I'm still perfecting my skills, I think it's important not to get stuck in a sewing rut. For this challenge, there will be plenty of - well - challenges. Just a list of some firsts from this collection: invisible zippers, knit fabrics, a Colette pattern, ruffle sleeves, shirt buttons, and seam binding. That's a lot of new skills to learn! I can't wait to dive in. :D

Colette Spring Palette Challenge

Have you heard about the Colette Patterns Spring Palette Challenge? Colette's Sarai has come up with one of the most fun sewing challenges yet. Over ten weeks, participants are going to devise a palette for their Spring wardrobe, gather inspiration and ideas, then - of course - madly sew away! The official post is here and a ton of other sewers have already posted their inspiration boards, palettes, and plans in Colette's new forum.

For my part, my final palette is based on the 2009 BBC version of Jane Austen's Emma. I'm something of a BBC (and Austen) groupie and I've lusted after Romola Garai's costumes ever since seeing this lush, delightful tale of Austen's most mischievous heroine. It also doesn't hurt that I have the same coloring as Garai, so they're colors I adore anyway.







All those pinks and whites and yellows just make me want to romp through a field of English daffodils in empire-waist dresses. Alas, I will settle for Texas wildflowers & the same amazing palette. :)