Miss Wren Attends the Ballet + Giveaway

Good evening, friends! As you know, I've been on a knit sewing kick lately. After years of using mostly wovens, my wardrobe is now bursting with handmade, stretchy garments. Fueling this obsession have been two patterns, the Myrtle and the Moneta dresses, from Colette. I've sewn a dizzying number of both dresses, steadily building up an army of secret pajamas.

You can imagine my delight, when Colette announced that they were adding to their range of knits. More stretchy dresses to love! The Wren Dress debuted last week, a charming mock-wrap dress with two skirt options, a gored slim design and a flowy gathered option. While it's something I would have auto-bought anyhow, Meg from Colette was kind enough to send me an advanced copy of the pattern, as part of the Wren Faire. Naturally, I was on that faster than Buffy on a vampire, Cordelia on a snappy put-down, or whatever Whedonesque metaphor you prefer.

My favorite part of the Wren dress is, hands down, the softly gathered neckband. It's a design element that ups the garment from the simple to the classic. As soon as I saw the line drawing, I knew a two-toned Wren was in my future, to make the most of that neckband. I love built-in potential for fabric mixing!

For this first version, I shopped my stash and came up with two beautiful wool knits, one full cut of a dusky rose jersey and remnants of a deep maroon, from last winter's Bonnie dress. The rose jersey has actually sat in my stash for ages, a victim of color doubts. While it's a shade I adore in theory, it's also a difficult one to pair with my complexion. To wear it alone, a ridiculous amount of blush is employed, or else I end up looking like the undead. (#normcorpse) With the deep, rich maroon as a buffer color on the neckband, however, it's sublime. The end result feels very winter-appropriate, the kind of dress one should wear on a snowy walk through the forest, with a coordinated berry pink cloak.

Not that we get snow in Waco. Or have very many forests, for that matter. Still...I quite like it. 

Before sewing this version up, I did make a quick muslin to check the bodice fit. The Wren calls for fabric with at least 25% stretch, which my rose jersey just met. Any issues that cropped up needed to be sorted out in basic jersey first, before trying something with a closer fit. 

As others have noted, the Wren does not resemble the block used to draft the Myrtle and the Moneta. The Wren pattern pieces are decidedly straighter, with a barely curving side seam. To accommodate my vast and wondrous bosom, I performed a Full Bust Adjustment on the XL, which added a curve to the side and lengthened the front bodice itself. Additionally, I raised and brought in the armscye, because I was getting a weird tenting thing from my arm to torso. These alterations were easy as pie, y'all. Knit FBAs are so easy to do that they feel like cheating! 

As you can see from the pictures, I still have some light pulling on the bodice, which wasn't present in my muslin. I did a bit of post-construction troubleshooting to find the cause of this and landed on a front bodice that still needs more length. Knits can be so different from fabric-to-fabric, that these latent fit issues do crop up. For me, perfectly fitting a bodice usually takes a few rounds of adjustments. I muslin to a point I'm pretty happy with, try it in fashion fabric, then keep improving. It's always going to fit better than RTW, after all. 

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When it comes to construction, the Wren was really fun to piece together. I gave the instructions a cursory glance and they seemed sensible, especially for beginners, but I went my own way on a few things. To better preserve the neckline, I reinforced it with clear elastic, just as I did the shoulders and waistline. As always, I finished the hem with fusible stay tape, to prevent a wavy hem. All the seams were sewn on my sewing machine, with the trusty lightning bolt stitch, then finished with my serger. 

There was one step that I went full on renegade with. Like the Moneta, the Wren has you gather the skirt by stretching and sewing the elastic. Y'all, I haaaaaate this technique. I know it's easy and super efficient, but it never works for me. My machine revolts; the elastic snaps. Other sewists perform it beautifully, but I've utterly given up. Instead, I like gathering knits with the dental floss (or embroidery floss, in my case) method. It's easier to control than the classic basting stitches method and gives nice, even gathers every time. 

For me, the Wren dress is another winning knit pattern from Colette! The finished dress reminds me of my old dance costumes from high school, all wide, swishy skirt and nipped-in waist. It's such a feminine silhouette. I will definitely be making more versions of this dress, starting with this floral Lillestoff jersey, which I've been hoarding for months now. Hooray for more knit dresses! 

There's more good news, however. If you comment on this blog post, Colette will enter you in a giveaway for their fabulous book, The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits. This is actually the same book that started my knit sewing adventures. If you're new to knits, it's the perfect resource to ease you into the techniques! Additionally, you can check out Erin's super cute animal print Wren and enter again on her blog. Thanks again to Colette Patterns, for letting me take this gorgeous dress for a spin! 

Update: If you're interested in my fitting changes for the Wren, stay tuned! I'll post pictures and details of my adjustments, early next week. 

Miss Myrtle Indulges Her Whims

Good morning, friends!

Strictly speaking, it's almost afternoon here, but I'm still insistently wearing pajamas and drinking coffee. This weekend was one for that sort of dogged relaxing. Sam scored free tickets to the Baylor game, which I graciously insisted he attend with friends. The pomp and circumstance of college football is a blast and Baylor has a swanky new stadium, but it's still too damn hot. Give me air-conditioning and ESPN, until November!

Left with an unexpected open day, I opted for total decadence. After a quick trip to the store for necessities (clotted cream), I spent the day baking scones, finishing Miss Fisher's final season (That last scene! Swoon.), and re-reading Evernight by Kristen Callihan. It was gloriously lazy, y'all. I feel completely energized and ready to tackle Sunday! Unfortunately, that means tackling the novella copyedits my editor sent over, last week. The horror.

Thus, the coffee. And the procrastination blogging.

Before putting nose to proverbial grindstone, let's go with one more bout of self-indulgence. This post is all about yet another Myrtle dress. This is my favorite one yet! 

Are you picking up on a trend? Yes, each new Myrtle is my favorite one yet. What this really means is that I can't get enough of this pattern. It's funny, really. None of Colette's woven patterns have worked nearly so well for me--I've made a few, with average success, but don't wear them often. Most of them were culled in my recent wardrobe pruning. Each of Colette's knit patterns, though, are on permanent rotation in my wardrobe. I just finished the Aberdeen from Seamwork, which looks to become another tried-and-true. Alyson Clair's knit drafting (in play on the Moneta, Myrtle, and Mabel, for sure) works splendidly for my figure, with minimal adjustments. 

Which is all to say: Another Myrtle! I love it! 

This Myrtle was specifically made, as part of my Sewing Indie Month mini-wardrobe. While Colette isn't an official designer/sponsor, this dress is meant to go underneath my still in-progress Luffa blazer from Waffle patterns. The fabric, a white-on-black polka dotted rayon jersey, is from Style Maker fabrics and was partially purchased with a gift certificate, received as thanks for participating in SIM. Honestly, I'd never heard of Style Maker, until this purchase. I was completely blown away by their stock of fabrics, though, especially knits. This rayon jersey is a really interesting fabric, with the weight and hand of a high quality cotton jersey. It has pretty good stretch, great recovery, and washed up beautifully. After sewing with this cut, I'm planning to snag its rose-print twin, as well. 

Back view! I didn't quite get the center back seam spacing right, as you can see, but the black doesn't bother my eye.

I won't bore you with construction details, since they're identical to my last few iterations of this pattern. It was mostly sewn on a serger, with details sewn on my sewing machine. The hem was fused with lightweight stabilizer, then twin-stitched in place, to minimize waving. It's a knit dress, kittens. You know how I roll on these.

This Myrtle is a particularly easy piece to throw on. The draped neckline and nipped-in waist keep it from becoming twee, despite the polka dots. While I was once all for the cutesy, as you know, my wardrobe has evolved over the last year. Now, every piece I sew feels both more grown up and more intentional, in relation to my personal style. That's a win, if I want to keep the wardrobe culls to a minimum. 

Now, I do have one final question. While I'd like to pretend it's all simple Myrtles and Monetas around here, there are grand sewing plans on the horizon. I just ordered some of the above red rayon velvet, from Mood, which is going to become some sort of 20's-inspired topper. I am envisioning something loose, to take advantage of the fabric's drape, but still structured enough to compliment my curves. All the better, if the garment can show off a little embroidery. I've been searching through patterns, but am stumped on what to choose. What would you make with this fabric, friends? Input is very much welcome! 

Note: The polka dot jersey was partially purchased with a gift certificate to Style Maker fabrics, as part of my participation in Sewing Indie Month. All opinions herein are my own, though. 

Miss Mona Plumbs the Depths: Colette Moneta

Let's begin today's post with an apology, kittens. This is, hands down, the most ridiculous pun-laden title I've ever used on Idle Fancy. The temptation was just too grape great. There should probably be a secondary pardon for showing you yet another knit dress, but you'll find no further prostrations here. My knit love continues, unabated and unabashed. 

This dress is, quite obviously, a Colette Moneta. It's been in my wardrobe for over a week now, but I was reticent to chat about it. There have been a thousand Moneta reviews, around the sewing world. After going back through the annals of this blog, however, it turns out I haven't talked about this pattern since its release. That initial post wasn't even a true Moneta--I pleated the skirt, instead of gathering, because my old machine was giving me fits. Considering my usual repetition of patterns, one Moneta every year seems like an acceptable rate of posting. After all, last year, I dedicated an entire season to McCall's 6696!

So, the Moneta.* 

It's a simple knit bodice with a gathered skirt, sleeve options, and collar options. You know this, because you've seen a hundred blasted versions already. The thing is, the Moneta is popular for a reason. While I'm an equal opportunity pattern lover, the sizing of Big 4 knit patterns leaves something to be desired. Invariably, the best size ends up being two--or even three!--sizes below what I usually sew up. That's easy enough to work around, but involves guesswork. Colette sized this dress, and their other knit offerings, in a modern, sensible manner. There is the right amount of negative ease in the bodice for stretch jersey fabrics and the skirt is roomy enough to skim over one's curves. 

Honestly, I have yet to see a horribly ill-fitting Moneta. With an expansive size range, which tops out at a 54-inch bust, the Moneta fits many, many body types. Negative ease is forgiving and knits are easier to fit, which benefits the seamstress. This is a simple design, but it's also a necessary one. While I long for more advanced sewing patterns, there's a place for this beginner-friendly design. A plain, functional knit dress is an essential wardrobe piece. We need dresses that feel like pajamas! Wearing such garments is one of the most delightful up-yours actions women can give to society. 

Okay, maybe that's overstating it a bit. When I wear a knit dress, though, that's how I feel. Sure, you think I look pulled together and molded into your classic standard of femininity, but this dress is essentially whole-body yoga pants. I could kick serious ninja butt, with nary a twinge of discomfort. Come at me, froyo cashier. 

*Fun fact: Today, I learned this is pronounced Mo-nita. For years, possibly thanks to a lifetime of speaking Spanish, I've been saying it Mo-netta. While listening to the first Seamwork podcast, featuring my dear pal Jenny, my mind was blown by Sarai's pronunciation of the pattern. It was an embarrassing flashback to my teenage days, when I cracked my mother up by pronouncing Ms. Granger's first name as Her-Me-Own. 

That's all to say that sewing this up was an enjoyable, easy process. For this Moneta, I used a plum-colored bamboo rayon jersey from Fabric.com. This dreamy, soft knit was recommended by the ever-fabulous Liza Jane, who used it recently for a series of knit t-shirts. After reading Liza Jane's post, I ordered three lengths of bamboo jersey and impatiently waited for them to arrive. These fabrics are gorgeous and were so worth the purchase. They have amazing stretch, impressive recovery, and feel blessedly cool against the skin. Witness: I'm wearing three-quarter sleeves without a fuss, when it's still 95 degrees outside. That's road-tested comfort.

Compared with cotton jerseys, rayons hug curves more. For this reason, I chose my standard XL for the Moneta's bodice, with a small FBA, but cut a 2XL for its skirt. My measurements fall in line with the smaller skirt, but I wanted some extra swish, just in case. In these photos, I'm wearing the dress without a slip underneath, so you can see the fabric in its truest form, but I do prefer an extra layer underneath. 

As you probably know, the Moneta's construction is deadly simple. The sleeves are set-in flat, rather than in the round, which makes the bodice a gloriously quick task. To create the gathers on the skirt, it's shirred with clear elastic, giving even falls of fabric all the way around. There is one thing I changed, however. Instead of using the turn-and-stitch method of finishing the neckline, I grabbed the neckband from my BGD Bonnie dress, shortened it a tad, and used that to finish my Moneta off. I don't trust an unfaced or unbound knit curve! They get so wonky, over time. Next time, I'll shorten the band even more, for better tension along the front bodice. 

This entire dress was sewn with a mix of my serger and my sewing machine, as per usual. Sew to construct, serge to finish. In addition to the waistline, the shoulders are also stabilized with clear elastic and my hem was turned with lightweight fusible interfacing. 

Et, voila! A comfortable dress that fits beautifully into my everyday wardrobe. Between the Moneta's great fit and this fabric's sumptuous feel, this dress is a joy to wear. Plum is one of my favorite colors anyway, as it brings out the golden undertones of my skin, and this one has washed up really well. Fingers crossed that it remains a deep, vibrant color!

Currently, I'm in the middle of sewing up two different fall blazers (Simplicity 1066 and Waffle Patterns Luffa), which should pair splendidly with this Moneta and my recent Myrtles. That's my plan for autumnal dressing: cute knit dresses, tights, blazers, and fabulous boots. 

For now, I'm going to dive back in to Jenny Lawson's newest book, Furiously Happy! That odd hooting noise you hear will be my hysterical, uncontrolled laughter. In case you'd like a snort of your own, I'm leaving you with a ridiculous photo outtake. What am I doing in this picture? Posing for a Rejected Princesses of Disney calendar? Willing animated birds to appear from the ether? Summoning the change in seasons, with manic, silly twirling? It's anyone's guess. 

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Official Note: Some people have recently asked when my two Burdastyle classes would be running again. Good news! Another round of Pattern Grading for Plus Sizes kicks off today and Burda just sent me a coupon code for 20% off, until September 30th. If you use the code Mary20 at checkout, the discount will be applied. Additionally, the more rarely held Pattern Grading for All Sizes class will be hosted again, starting on October 20th. That class covers three methods of resizing patterns to fit your shape, both making them larger and smaller, as well as post-grading fit guidance. Registration is now open, if you've been waiting for that one! 

Miss Myrtle Celebrates a New Decade

This, kittens, is what thirty looks like.

Or, at least, this is what I look like at thirty. I'm sure other people have looked much more glamorous. At the same age, Elizabeth Taylor was filming Cleopatra and wearing fabulous headpieces. Lack of tiaras aside, today was pretty fabulous. It was filled with all of my favorite things: flowers, cupcakes, chicken parmigiana, lots of time with my love, and a new dress! 

Another Myrtle, of course. Did you expect anything else?

This particular Myrtle is my favorite iteration yet. The lovely cotton jersey was sent to me by Lillestoff, along with another fabric to try and one to give away. While the other fabric will soon turn into an autumnal wrap dress, this gorgeous tropical lily print seemed like a perfect birthday dress. It just felt so very "Mary!"

Now, I have to admit that I've always lusted after Lillestoff fabrics. Until now, however, I have only used their children's prints in my own sewing. (Lillestoff onesies are instant baby shower hits!) This review was always going to be biased, no matter the gifted fabric. I am a sucker for bright colors and cute prints, which Lillestoff specializes in. Luckily, they do have an expansive line of women's prints. They're just as high quality as the more famous children's prints, but in more mature designs. I was really impressed with both jerseys I received. Not only do they have excellent stretch and recovery, but wash really well. This dress has been through the laundry twice already and the blue is still rich and bright.

While I adore this dress, you'll notice it drapes differently than my two previous versions. One of the curiosities of sewing with knits is how dramatically disparate their properties can be. They're all drapey sure, but how do they drape? How heavy is the drape? Do they cling or do they glide? Medium-weight cotton jerseys, like this one, have a denser drape than a light rayon jersey will. Details are less slinky and more softly folded than they would be otherwise. 

All that is to say that this cotton Myrtle feels like an entirely new pattern. The cowl is more of a pretty folding of jersey and the elasticized waist is more dramatically gathered. I really love the effect that both of these slight changes have on the dress. It's much more of a day dress--easy to wear for an afternoon out and as cozy as a nightgown. An ideal summer dress, in other words. Considering we have two more months of legitimate warmth in Texas, this is fine by me. 

The construction of this Myrtle is identical to my orange version. Everything was sewn on my serger, except for my hems, which were stitched with a twin needle. I used lightweight fusible webbing to stabilize the skirt hem, so that it didn't wave horribly. Pockets were omitted, as well. Neither of my first versions have pockets either, though I usually love them in dresses. With knits, I feel like they always make the skirt hang strangely. No matter how much I press, the hips still seam to bubble!

In the end, this dress is so much fun to wear. It's bright, covered in flowers, and amazingly comfortable! Even better, I have high hopes that it will stand up to years of careful laundering. There's a remarkable difference in how well this fabric is wearing already, versus cotton knits I've used in the past. Lillestoff might have just hooked me on their adult fabrics. I'll keep y'all posted on how the wrap dress turns out, with my other option, and will give away a third cut soon! 

As for the last few hours of my thirtieth birthday, I have grand plans. Namely: watch Harry Potter with my Sam, drink boozy root beer, and eat parmesan rosemary popcorn. This next decade is off to a brilliant start, so far! 

Miss Myrtle and the Tangerine Dream

Bonsoir, kittens! Tonight, we're chatting about my latest pattern love: the Colette Myrtle. Why yes, this pattern was released over a year ago. While I would like to blame a packed schedule or full wardrobe for this creative delay, that would be a lie. 

Here's the truth, y'all: I have a pathological fear of cowl necks. 

They're elegant on most women, but potentially disastrous for large busts. Whenever I try on ready-to-wear cowls, they twist and pull like the devil. Even if the garment itself is oversized, the bust inevitably drags. When the Myrtle debuted, I shrugged it off as a pretty pattern that didn't suit my body type. Cut to a year later and the lovely Lilli, of Frocks & Frou Frou. Lilli's latest version of the Myrtle, a gorgeous nebula-print dress, convinced me this pattern could work on curves. Hell, it could look downright fabulous on curves! Each of Lilli's Myrtles is exactly the chic, easy-to-wear type of dress I love. 

Quickly, this Myrtle lust became all-consuming. Within three days, I had printed the PDF, taped it all together, and sewn two new dresses. Considering how absent my sewing motivation has been, that is a rare thing, indeed. 

The first version of the dress, pictured below, was made in black cotton-viscose jersey from Mood Fabrics. My wardrobe is in desperate need of solids, at the moment. I've recently finished a massive closet purge and everything left is a floral, a stripe, or a novelty print. A replacement little black dress was just the thing! With Myrtle's beautiful drape and sophisticated silhouette, it's the sort of pattern that's easily dressed up with the right fabric and accessories. This medium-weight jersey made a Myrtle that's ideal for a cocktail party or night out. (More photos can be found at the Mood Sewing Network blog.)

Solids are also better for test runs of knit patterns. Prints can easily hide fitting mishaps, after all. This black Myrtle was a size XL, with a small full bust adjustment and additional hem length. As you can see in the pictures, the fit is almost right. It's a darling little dress, but there is some pulling along the bust line. It's the curse of the cowl neck! Despite being well within the measurements for the XL and doing an initial adjustment, I still needed more front bodice width. 

Otherwise, I loved this dress. It was quick to make--about two hours, after cutting--and really straight forward to put together. The front bodice is cleverly self-lined, with a doubled pattern piece folded along the cowl line. Everything but the back bodice finishes and skirt hem can be sewn on a serger, which streamlines the construction process. 

One technical note: I did change the method of elastic insertion. The pattern tells you to sew the top of the casing first, then stretch and pin the elastic around the waist, before finally stretching and sewing the casing bottom down. While this prevents the beginning seamstress from running elastic through a casing, it was untenable for me. My waist is smaller than the intended measurements, so my elastic was impossible to pin and stretch properly. After one failed attempt, I opted for a more traditional method. I sewed the casing down completely, leaving a three-inch opening at the side seam. Using a safety pin, I threaded the elastic through, then sewed the casing shut. 

Fun fact! It was super windy, while shooting these, The hem is, in fact, straight.

For my second Myrtle, I chose an orange and white poppy-print jersey, also from Mood. This fabric is a favorite of my fellow MSN bloggers, used recently in Lauren's gorgeous wrap dress and Lori's chic sheath. It's easy to understand the love, after sewing with it. This viscose knit is lightweight, but still completely opaque, and has amazing stretch and recovery. I adore how cool rayon knits are against the skin, while still draping beautifully. They're quickly becoming my go-to knits, for summer garments. 

Myrtle II also benefitted from further fitting adjustments. I added width to the bodice front, with a bigger FBA, which allows the cowl to drape lower and eliminated the bust pulling. Otherwise, this dress was constructed identically to my first. Every seam is serged, the finishings were twin-stitched, and the hem is interfaced with light fusible webbing. 

This is the cowl-neck dress of my dreams. The bodice falls beautifully over my curves and the skirt swishes, with each step. I usually don't love elastic waist dresses, but the wide casing of this one really works for my figure. I like it both with and without a belt! You can expect more of this pattern, in the near future, as it blends perfectly with my lifestyle right now. Knit pieces that dress up easily are exactly what I reach for, each morning. They're as comfortable as yoga pants, but more socially acceptable! 

That, my dears, is a win. Well done, Myrtle. 

Note: The fabric for these dresses was given to me, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network. However, I chose both lengths myself and all opinions are my own. 

Miss Mona Catches a Bouquet: Colette Moneta

Good afternoon, chickadees! Today is my second stop on the Curvy Colette Blog Tour, which means it's time to unveil my Moneta dress. Or, anyhow, one of my Monetas. This pattern is so wonderful that I've already cut out another two dresses. That's always a good sign, right?

Like the Mabel, the Moneta is one of Colette's new patterns for knits. It's a simple fit-and-flare dress, with three sleeve variations, an optional collar, and an additional five collar variations available for download. It is, essentially, the most versatile dress in the world! The Moneta can be made to fit any style and, with the addition of more plus sizes, almost any body. 

For my first Moneta, I opted for a springy, floral aesthetic. Shocking, I know. 

This fabulous cotton jersey is from Girl Charlee, bought on the heels of my serger earlier this year. It's a pastel floral, with pinks, purples, and yellows set against a spearmint background. It is such a Mary fabric! Even better, it was so easy to sew up. Despite its tendency to roll, this jersey pressed beautifully and has just the right amount of stretch for the Moneta. I'm not sure how the rest of GC's jerseys are, when it comes to quality, but this one was lovely. 

As for the pattern, it's a total success. Would we expect anything less from Colette Patterns? I chose the short-sleeved version, ever cognizant of the impending doom summer, and it was a very straight-forward project. Since it's unlined, the sleeves and neckline were simply turned under once, then hemmed. Knits are so great, in regards to finishing techniques. There are no facings or bindings to mess with, just simple stitching! 

I did make one small adjustment to the pattern, however. Instead of the shirring called for on the skirt, I opted to softly pleat this first version. It's somewhat unconventional, but I adore the look of pleated knit fabric. It and flows and flatters beautifully. Apart from that little change, everything else is as-directed. I serged the seams, twin-stiched the hems, and stabilized the shoulders and waistline with clear elastic. 

Cut-to-hem, it took me about four hours. A good hour of that was spent cutting out, of course, because that's the one area where knits can be fiddly.  With a little patience and lots of pattern weights, the whole process isn't too painful, however! 

This was such a simple dress, y'all! Even better, I really love the resulting silhouette. My mind is fairly bursting with ideas for more Monetas. While I love a complicated pattern as much as the next sewist, there's something wonderful about a simple, easily embellished basic dress. There is no limit to what a girl could make with a little vision and the Moneta! Personally, my next one will be nautical in aesthetic. All those collars demand to be tried. 

The details...

Things I Loved:

• The fabric! Not only is it gorgeous, but it's so comfortable. Huzzah for pajama dresses!
• The shape! The Moneta really is such a classic silhouette. This dress is made to flatter all figures.
• The sizing! I made a straight XL, which fit me to a T, but I'm so excited about this expanded size range. You can make a Moneta, whether you're an XS or a 3X. Way to go, Colette!

Things I Changed:

• Pleated the skirt, instead of gathering. 

Things I Will Change, Next Time:

• I am dying to add a collar to this beauty! It would have been a bit too twee with this fabric, but will definitely make an appearance soon. 

Notions & Fabric:

• Moneta Dress courtesy of Colette Patterns
• 3 yards of floral cotton jersey from Girl Charlee -- $21
• 2 yards of clear elastic. 

Don't forget to check out all the great projects from the Curvy Colette blog tour! Tomorrow, the lovely Sophie-Lee will be debuting her first outfit on Two Random Words. Catch up with all the fabulous members of the Curvy Sewing Collective at their respective blogs: 

Wednesday, April 16th: Jenny at Cashmerette

Thursday, April 17th: Mary at Idle Fancy

Saturday, April 19th: Laurence at QuirkyPrettyCute

Monday, April 21st:  Tanya at Mrs Hughes

Tuesday, April 22nd: T at UandMii

Saturday, April 26th: Sophie-Lee at Two Random Words

Monday, April 28th: Mary at Young, Broke and Fabulous 

Curvy Colette Plus Size Blog Tour: Interview With Alyson Clair

Good morning, friends! As promised, today's stop on the Curvy Colette Blog Tour is focused on the brains behind these lovely patterns: Alyson Clair and Sarai Mitnick.

The Mabel and the Moneta are not only Colette's first patterns for knit fabrics, but also their first with an expanded size range. We thought it would be fun to peek inside the creative process behind these new offerings, so Alyson and Sarai graciously agreed to answer some questions for us. Thanks, ladies!

Today on Idle Fancy, I'm chatting with knitwear goddess, Alyson Clair, while Jenny is hosting the lovely Sarai Mitnick over at Cashmerette. Check out both interviews and let us know how you're enjoying the Curvy Colette Blog Tour!

Mary: Good morning, Alyson! We're so excited about these two designs and fascinated by the creative process behind them.  What were your main sources of inspiration for these patterns?

Alyson: My main sources of inspiration are always classics that can live in your wardrobe for a long time, and also be very versatile. When I'm designing a pattern I try to think of all of the different bodies that may wear it, and how to make it flattering on a variety of them. I'm also a fan of fancy, and comfort. There is no reason you can't have both.

Mary: We're so excited about the inclusive size range of these patterns! Could you describe a bit of what is involved, when fitting an expansive size range?

Alyson: When doing a size range of this scale, it is best to have 2 bases. This is important, as body proportions can change a lot from one end of the range to the other. We fit on a size Medium and a size 2XL live models, and also Colette Patterns now has dress forms of both of those sizes. . So it's double the work from a regular pattern or style, but it is so important to do it right! I'm a super big patternmaking nerd, so it was an exciting challenge to work on this. I'm very happy with how the patterns turned out, and I really think people will enjoy them.

Mary: Your own clothing line, Clair Vintage, is known for chic knitwear. How did you begin designing with knits?

Alyson: I actually did not sew until I got to college. I cursed my way through sewing with wovens in classes. As soon as I learned to sew on a serger with knits, it was magical. I find knits are easier to sew, much more forgiving, and easier to fit. I also looked at what was in my closet. 95% of my wardrobe is knit, and knits are what I am most comfortable wearing. So it was natural as I started making clothes to sell, it was with knits. There is so much fabric variety, it never gets boring. I also really enjoy patternmaking with knits, and love things with spandex.

Mary: It must be a very different process, designing for home sewists versus designing for your own line! What were your favorite parts of this project?

Alyson: Yes it is very different, but it has been really fun! Sometimes I feel like I speak a different language with commercial sewing vs. home sewing, since I spent 4 years working a factory. So I've learned a lot of things in this process, and love it. My favorite thing is all of the variety and options that can be done with the patterns. Working on a clothing line, you make many of a style and have to be concerned with sewing time, fabric costs, and embellishments. Home sewists can do whatever they like. I am so excited to see all of the variations and creativity that will come out of these patterns.

Mary: So many sewists are still afraid to try out knit fabrics. What are the biggest advantages of sewing with knits?

Alyson: If I can sew with knits, so can you! It's just different from wovens, from the way the fabric behaves, and how it is handled when sewn. Have patience, practice, and hopefully fall in love with sewing with knits. There are many advantages to sewing with knits. My favorite one is comfort. My body fluctuates in size a bit, and I like to know I can have 15lb up or down, and still be ok fitting into the majority of my clothing. Knits allow you to move freely, stretch with your body, and be comfortable. Also, a good majority of the time, the sewing time is not as long.

Thank you so much for chatting with us, Alyson! You make knit fabrics sound like such fun to work with! I had a blast sewing up both of these patterns and can't wait for more knitwear options from you and Sarai. 

Readers, I'm curious, how many out there are newbies to knits? Are you excited to give these wonder fabrics a whirl, now that they've been demystified?  If you are interested in trying out knits for the first time, Alyson's new e-book, The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits, is now available. There's no better expert to have at your side, while you sew up the Moneta and Mabel. 

Also, don't forget to pop over to Cashmerette and check out Jenny's interview with Sarai! 

Curvy Colette: A Plus Size Blog Tour

Wednesday, April 16th: Jenny at Cashmerette

Thursday, April 17th: Mary at Idle Fancy

Saturday, April 19th: Laurence at QuirkyPrettyCute

Monday, April 21st:  Tanya at Mrs Hughes

Tuesday, April 22nd: T at UandMii

Saturday, April 26th: Sophie-Lee at Pins & Noodles

Monday, April 28th: Mary at Young, Broke and Fabulous 

Miss Mabel Changes Her Spots: Curvy Colette

Good afternoon, lovelies! As promised yesterday, today's post is all about the new knitwear patterns from Colette. Since Jenny unveiled her fabulous Moneta yesterday, I thought it only fitting that I kick off the Curvy Colette Blog Tour with that most perfect of pencil skirts, the Mabel.

When we first received the two patterns, earlier this month, I fell head-over-heels for Miss Mabel. Why didn't I already own a knit pencil skirt? The concept is genius. All the elegance of a curve-hugging skirt, but with the comfort of yoga pants? Sign me up. Deceptively comfortable clothing is, as has been documented lately, one of my favorite things to make and wear! 

Let me tell you, darlings, the Mabel did not disappoint. She's gorgeous!

For my first foray into knit skirt bliss, I chose a charcoal ponte de roma knit  from Girl Charlee and the longer version of Miss Mabel. It's a midweight knit, as recommended by the pattern, with black foil polka dots marching over it. Up close, the dots have just a bit of sheen, like little leather appliques. Weird, but wonderful.

The only trick for this skirt was choosing the proper size. With other Colette patterns I'm usually a blend of the 14 and the 16, translating to an XL in the new knits. Having never owned a knit skirt before, however, I was trepidatious. Would my proper size cling too much? Would every bump, every rolling hill of my backside be discerned by passers-by? The horror!

I needn't have worried, of course. The XL worked perfectly for my body shape, flattering in all the right places and skimming over everything else. Y'all, my curves look bangin' in this skirt. If you're searching for the perfect work-to-play skirt pattern, look no further. Mabel rocks the category. With a cardigan and tailored button-down, like my new Archer it's paired with here, this skirt is all easy elegance. With a vintage t-shirt and leather jacket? Badass concert attire!

Since I don't currently own a leather jacket, I stuck to the professional side of things for this post. Also, note to Mary: fix that gap in your closet now! Mabel deserves to be a cool kid. 

Let's talk construction though, shall we? Not only does Mabel come with really helpful instructions, but Sarai and Alyson have also released The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits, to hand-hold us through all of those first time knit anxieties. If you are a knits beginner, the Mabel is the perfect pattern to start with. The front of the skirt is pieced, for an extra flattering silhouette, while the back is a simple kick-pleat design. This is a pattern that could easily be sewn on a regular sewing machine, with nothing more than a zig-zag stitch and some courage. Easy, well-drafted, and quick!

Speaking of quick...

Kittens, this skirt took me an hour-and-a-half to make. That's from cutting to hem, y'all. Have you ever heard of anything so wonderful? This is, far and away, my quickest sewing project ever. Everything was really expertly designed, from the seam placement to the waistband lining method, and a breeze to put together. Most of my stitching was done on the serger, apart from the twin-needle hem, which also hurried things along. 

This was such a fun pattern to make! Once my sewing schedule calms down, expect to see quite a few more Mabels. When a skirt is this cute, a girl needs it in every color, don't you think? If you were at all nervous about how a knit skirt would translate onto a curvy body, rest easy. Grab a heavy knit and make yourself a Mabel! You won't regret it. 

The details...

Things I Loved:

• The ease! 1.5 hours, cannot be emphasized enough. 
• The seaming! So, so flattering for those who want to show off some curves.
• The comfort! Knits are the best. 

Things I Changed:

• Not a thing! I sewed the straight XL of Version 3

Things I Will Change Next Time:

• Not a thing!

Tips & Tricks:

• Finding a nice midweight knit is key here. If you want a skirt that will glide over hills, instead of cling to them, you need something more substantial than a jersey. Try a ponte, double-knit, or very stretchy pique. 

Fabric & Notions: 

• 1 yard of gray-and-black ponte from Girl Charlee - $7.50
• Colette Mabel pattern - courtesy of Colette Patterns

Don't forget to keep up with the Curvy Colette Blog Tour on all of our stops! Tomorrow, I'll be back for an interview with knitwear goddess herself, Alyson Clair, and next week I'll debut my own Moneta dress. 

Announcing the Curvy Colette Blog Tour!

Good evening, darling ones! Today has been quite the exciting day at Chez Fancy. 

For the last twenty-four hours, the internet has rejoiced over the new knit pattern offerings from Colette Patterns, the Moneta and the Mabel. The Moneta is an elegant dress with three sleeve variations and five--that's right, five!--collar options, while Mabel is the perfect, simple pencil skirt. Not only are they two absolutely gorgeous designs, but they are being offered in an expanded size range. Both patterns are available up to a size 3x! 

When the lovely Jenny and I heard about these patterns last month, we were over the moon. Gorgeous patterns for women of every size? We needed to celebrate! Thus, the Curvy Colette Blog Tour was born. After joining forces with Sarai, we contacted some of our favorite curvy sewists and asked them to sew up their own stylish versions of the Moneta and Mabel. Over the next two weeks, we'll be hopping from blog to blog, sharing pretty knitwear pieces and celebrating curvy fashion. 

Jenny kicked off the tour today, with her smashing striped Moneta, and there are so many great outfits to come! The full line-up is below, so gear up for a fortnight of loveliness!

Wednesday, April 16th -- Jenny at Cashmerette

Thursday, April 17th -- Mary at Idle Fancy (That's me! That's tomorrow!)

Friday, April 18th -- Exclusive interviews on Cashmerette and Idle Fancy with Sarai and Alyson

Saturday & Sunday, Aprl 19th & 20th -- Laurence at Quirky Pretty Cute

Monday, April 21st -- Tanya at Mrs. Hughes

Tuesday & Wednesday, April 22nd & 23rd -- T at UandMii

Thursday, April 24th --Jenny at Cashmerette

Friday, April 25th -- Mary at Idle Fancy
Saturday, April 26th --Sophie-Lee at Pins & Noodles
Monday, April 28th --Mary at Young Broke & Fabulous
Wednesday, April 30th -- Mary at Young Broke & Fabulous

If you want to keep up with all the Curvy news, follow our blogs and social media! We'll be linking to all the pretty pieces, throughout the next two weeks. This is the first adventure of what we've dubbed the Curvy Sewing Collective, but not the last. We're dedicated to making home sewing more accessible for plus-sized and curvy women. There will be sew-alongs, tutorials, and all sorts of inspiration coming your way over the next few months! 

Lastly, a huge thanks to Sarai and Alyson for their generosity in this venture. We're so thrilled to help showcase these patterns and encourage other curvy sewists to sew with knits!