Miss Audra Hangs on to Summer: Southport Dress

Hello, kittens! No need to check the calendar. Your eyes are not deceiving you. Despite our quickly approaching autumn, I made the most summery dress ever. Chalk it up to our crazy Texas weather. While a chill may be in the air elsewhere around the States, we're still solidly in the nineties. Our current forecast is nothing but sun, blue skies, and unrelenting heat. 

As such, I altered my Sewing Indie Month plans a little bit. While I've already kicked off sewing my fall mini-wardrobe, my closet demanded one last summer dress. Going with my designated theme of "Everyday Casual," I wanted something truly easy-to-wear. A garment that could take me from lazy afternoons at the park to a chic, comfortable turn at the Austin City Limits Festival, in a few weeks. 

Cue the Southport Dress, from True Bias. 

The Southport has been a really popular dress pattern, over the last few months. There have been so many amazing iterations, but two of my favorites are Jenny's dreamy silk maxi version and Meg's tester version in the cutest fruit-print cotton crepe. The pattern itself is a simple tank style bodice, with a half-button placket, drawstring waist, and lightly flowing skirt. There are two hem lengths, a casual above-the-knee and more dramatic full maxi length, with a thigh-high slit. 

Originally, I'd planned a maxi version, but talked myself out of it at the last minute. While I'm rather tall for a woman (5'8'' or 173 cm), all that fabric still worried me. Sure it looked fabulous on other people, but would it make me look squat? Would my curves disappear? Worries ran like caffeinated gazelles around my mind. So, I chickened out and cut the shorter skirt. 

That's okay, because the shorter Southport, has beautifully scant fabric needs. Less than two yards! Finally, I was able to use this gorgeous paintbrush print from my stash. This fabric is a silk/cotton voile, bought from Gorgeous Fabrics sometime in 2010, and has almost become so many things. With only two yards on hand, it was difficult to match a project to it. With the gigantic print, it needed to become a complete piece, but nothing seemed right. Until, of course, the Southport. This fabric is ideal for a breezy, warm weather dress. Bold, but lightweight. Bright, but elegant. 

Note: Please excuse my cock-eyed drawstring placement. It's an unfortunate side effect of taking pictures with two dogs as my creative directors. They're not terribly detailed oriented, those two. 

Before cutting into my fabric, I did a quick bodice muslin. While some people have foregone the FBA, thanks to the Southport's designed ease, that track made me nervous. Outside of knit garments, I haven't skipped an FBA in eons. Unless the pattern comes with alternate cup sizes, alterations are a must for my 36E bust. 

Good thing, too. This muslin was much needed. I ended up adding two inches to the bodice, in an FBA, and raising the armholes up and in by over an inch. If you're large busted, I recommend a similar set of alterations. There's no way these buttons would've laid flat, without them! When I make the maxi version, I'll also add more room in the hip area. The skirt as-drafted works really well as a short dress, but I would like more hip swish in the longer version. 

Sewing this dress up was a painless process. I gave a cursory glance to the instructions and really liked the methods Kelli suggested for construction. Her directions guarantee a pretty, clean finish, both inside and out. The neckline and armscyes are finished with bias tape, while the drawstring casing is a straightforward on-skirt addition. I matched my self-made bias tape to the drawstring, using a lightweight plum batiste from my stash. It's a perfect match for the darker brushstrokes in the main fabric! 

As my last dress of summer, this Southport is a winner. It won't necessarily take me into fall, but it is a comfortable, colorful way to round out the season. With such dogged sunshine, getting dressed turns into a chore, this time every year. Having a new dress to reach for, especially such a cheerful one, makes it much, much more fun! 

Now, there's only one question left. Should I make a maxi version, for autumn? A darker palette and dramatic print could make this pattern a trans-seasonal hit. We shall see...

In the meantime, we have Sewing Indie Month to celebrate! There's a really dishy blazer on the docket for me, as well as some strategic use of polka dots. If you're joining in on my Everyday Casual category, what are you planning to make? Remember, you have until October 4th to enter the contest!

Note: As one of the hosts for Sewing Indie Month, I received this pattern free of charge, courtesy of Kelli from True Bias. I was given the opportunity to request patterns from participating designers and chose the Southport of my own volition, because it fits well with my theme and is super cute!

Miss Myrtle Celebrates a New Decade

This, kittens, is what thirty looks like.

Or, at least, this is what I look like at thirty. I'm sure other people have looked much more glamorous. At the same age, Elizabeth Taylor was filming Cleopatra and wearing fabulous headpieces. Lack of tiaras aside, today was pretty fabulous. It was filled with all of my favorite things: flowers, cupcakes, chicken parmigiana, lots of time with my love, and a new dress! 

Another Myrtle, of course. Did you expect anything else?

This particular Myrtle is my favorite iteration yet. The lovely cotton jersey was sent to me by Lillestoff, along with another fabric to try and one to give away. While the other fabric will soon turn into an autumnal wrap dress, this gorgeous tropical lily print seemed like a perfect birthday dress. It just felt so very "Mary!"

Now, I have to admit that I've always lusted after Lillestoff fabrics. Until now, however, I have only used their children's prints in my own sewing. (Lillestoff onesies are instant baby shower hits!) This review was always going to be biased, no matter the gifted fabric. I am a sucker for bright colors and cute prints, which Lillestoff specializes in. Luckily, they do have an expansive line of women's prints. They're just as high quality as the more famous children's prints, but in more mature designs. I was really impressed with both jerseys I received. Not only do they have excellent stretch and recovery, but wash really well. This dress has been through the laundry twice already and the blue is still rich and bright.

While I adore this dress, you'll notice it drapes differently than my two previous versions. One of the curiosities of sewing with knits is how dramatically disparate their properties can be. They're all drapey sure, but how do they drape? How heavy is the drape? Do they cling or do they glide? Medium-weight cotton jerseys, like this one, have a denser drape than a light rayon jersey will. Details are less slinky and more softly folded than they would be otherwise. 

All that is to say that this cotton Myrtle feels like an entirely new pattern. The cowl is more of a pretty folding of jersey and the elasticized waist is more dramatically gathered. I really love the effect that both of these slight changes have on the dress. It's much more of a day dress--easy to wear for an afternoon out and as cozy as a nightgown. An ideal summer dress, in other words. Considering we have two more months of legitimate warmth in Texas, this is fine by me. 

The construction of this Myrtle is identical to my orange version. Everything was sewn on my serger, except for my hems, which were stitched with a twin needle. I used lightweight fusible webbing to stabilize the skirt hem, so that it didn't wave horribly. Pockets were omitted, as well. Neither of my first versions have pockets either, though I usually love them in dresses. With knits, I feel like they always make the skirt hang strangely. No matter how much I press, the hips still seam to bubble!

In the end, this dress is so much fun to wear. It's bright, covered in flowers, and amazingly comfortable! Even better, I have high hopes that it will stand up to years of careful laundering. There's a remarkable difference in how well this fabric is wearing already, versus cotton knits I've used in the past. Lillestoff might have just hooked me on their adult fabrics. I'll keep y'all posted on how the wrap dress turns out, with my other option, and will give away a third cut soon! 

As for the last few hours of my thirtieth birthday, I have grand plans. Namely: watch Harry Potter with my Sam, drink boozy root beer, and eat parmesan rosemary popcorn. This next decade is off to a brilliant start, so far! 

Happy Sewing Indie Month! Let's get casual.

Good afternoon, dear ones! Today, the very last day of my twenties, I have a fun announcement to make. September is not only National Sewing Month here in the States, but Sewing Indie Month around blogland. This year, I'm taking over the Everyday Casual sewalong from my dear friend and last year's host, Jenny of Cashmerette.

This means that all month long, I'll be sharing inspiration and garments that fit into a chic, casual wardrobe. As I've just purged half my closet, much of it ready-to-wear basics, this sewalong couldn't come at a better time for me. My goal for this month is to build a mini-wardrobe, incorporating special pieces that are perfect for everyday, but still make me feel stylish and pulled together.

On Friday, I'll share my planning post for the sewalong, but we have some other fun things to talk about today. Some of the most exciting parts of Sewing Indie Month are the sewalong contests. This year, there are three themes you can enter:

• Dressed to the Nines, hosted by Laura of Lilacs and Lace. This sewalong will focus on those dressy, beautiful garments reserved for the special events in your life. Think party dresses and power suits!
• Pattern Hacking, hosted by Rhonda of Rhonda's Creative Life. For this sewalong, the focus is all on innovation. Take a great pattern and make it completely your own! 
• Everyday Casual, hosted right here! This sewalong is for those pieces that can take you from brunch with friends to a day at the park. Comfortable, chic, and easy to blend into your busy life. 

Even better, each sewalong has amazing prizes involved! To be considered for one of the great contest packages, make up a garment from any of the participating designers, then enter it into the sewalong(s) of your choice, by October 4th. If you participate in the Everyday Casual sewalong, you could go home with these fabulous prizes, donated by Sewing Indie sponsors:

One free Craftsy class of winner’s choice

Santa Lucia Patterns: 30 Euro gift certificate

Tessuti Fabrics: your choice of two hardcopy Tessuti sewing patterns

Fancy Tiger Crafts: $50 gift certificate

Finch Sewing Studio - $50 gift certificate

Waffle Patterns: your choice of Perpernoot coat or Monaca shirt PDF patterns
Paprika Patterns Jade Skirt PDF patternCloset Case Patterns: your choice of PDF pattern

Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick: Mimosa blouse PDF pattern

Muse Patterns: your choice of PDF pattern

Be sure to check out the Sewing Indie website, for more information on rules and the other sewalongs! There's also a second bundle of patterns up for sale, with proceeds going to Women for Women, a charity which helps women facing violence, marginalization, and poverty as a result of war and conflict. There are some great patterns in this bundle, whether you're sewing for a chilly Northern Hemisphere autumn, or gearing up for the sun in the Southern Hemisphere. 

In the meantime, Idle Fancy will be about all things everyday and casual, this month. Well, after I share my birthday dress tomorrow, of course! Spoiler alert: it's another Myrtle. 

Miss Myrtle and the Tangerine Dream

Bonsoir, kittens! Tonight, we're chatting about my latest pattern love: the Colette Myrtle. Why yes, this pattern was released over a year ago. While I would like to blame a packed schedule or full wardrobe for this creative delay, that would be a lie. 

Here's the truth, y'all: I have a pathological fear of cowl necks. 

They're elegant on most women, but potentially disastrous for large busts. Whenever I try on ready-to-wear cowls, they twist and pull like the devil. Even if the garment itself is oversized, the bust inevitably drags. When the Myrtle debuted, I shrugged it off as a pretty pattern that didn't suit my body type. Cut to a year later and the lovely Lilli, of Frocks & Frou Frou. Lilli's latest version of the Myrtle, a gorgeous nebula-print dress, convinced me this pattern could work on curves. Hell, it could look downright fabulous on curves! Each of Lilli's Myrtles is exactly the chic, easy-to-wear type of dress I love. 

Quickly, this Myrtle lust became all-consuming. Within three days, I had printed the PDF, taped it all together, and sewn two new dresses. Considering how absent my sewing motivation has been, that is a rare thing, indeed. 

The first version of the dress, pictured below, was made in black cotton-viscose jersey from Mood Fabrics. My wardrobe is in desperate need of solids, at the moment. I've recently finished a massive closet purge and everything left is a floral, a stripe, or a novelty print. A replacement little black dress was just the thing! With Myrtle's beautiful drape and sophisticated silhouette, it's the sort of pattern that's easily dressed up with the right fabric and accessories. This medium-weight jersey made a Myrtle that's ideal for a cocktail party or night out. (More photos can be found at the Mood Sewing Network blog.)

Solids are also better for test runs of knit patterns. Prints can easily hide fitting mishaps, after all. This black Myrtle was a size XL, with a small full bust adjustment and additional hem length. As you can see in the pictures, the fit is almost right. It's a darling little dress, but there is some pulling along the bust line. It's the curse of the cowl neck! Despite being well within the measurements for the XL and doing an initial adjustment, I still needed more front bodice width. 

Otherwise, I loved this dress. It was quick to make--about two hours, after cutting--and really straight forward to put together. The front bodice is cleverly self-lined, with a doubled pattern piece folded along the cowl line. Everything but the back bodice finishes and skirt hem can be sewn on a serger, which streamlines the construction process. 

One technical note: I did change the method of elastic insertion. The pattern tells you to sew the top of the casing first, then stretch and pin the elastic around the waist, before finally stretching and sewing the casing bottom down. While this prevents the beginning seamstress from running elastic through a casing, it was untenable for me. My waist is smaller than the intended measurements, so my elastic was impossible to pin and stretch properly. After one failed attempt, I opted for a more traditional method. I sewed the casing down completely, leaving a three-inch opening at the side seam. Using a safety pin, I threaded the elastic through, then sewed the casing shut. 

Fun fact! It was super windy, while shooting these, The hem is, in fact, straight.

For my second Myrtle, I chose an orange and white poppy-print jersey, also from Mood. This fabric is a favorite of my fellow MSN bloggers, used recently in Lauren's gorgeous wrap dress and Lori's chic sheath. It's easy to understand the love, after sewing with it. This viscose knit is lightweight, but still completely opaque, and has amazing stretch and recovery. I adore how cool rayon knits are against the skin, while still draping beautifully. They're quickly becoming my go-to knits, for summer garments. 

Myrtle II also benefitted from further fitting adjustments. I added width to the bodice front, with a bigger FBA, which allows the cowl to drape lower and eliminated the bust pulling. Otherwise, this dress was constructed identically to my first. Every seam is serged, the finishings were twin-stitched, and the hem is interfaced with light fusible webbing. 

This is the cowl-neck dress of my dreams. The bodice falls beautifully over my curves and the skirt swishes, with each step. I usually don't love elastic waist dresses, but the wide casing of this one really works for my figure. I like it both with and without a belt! You can expect more of this pattern, in the near future, as it blends perfectly with my lifestyle right now. Knit pieces that dress up easily are exactly what I reach for, each morning. They're as comfortable as yoga pants, but more socially acceptable! 

That, my dears, is a win. Well done, Myrtle. 

Note: The fabric for these dresses was given to me, as part of my participation in the Mood Sewing Network. However, I chose both lengths myself and all opinions are my own. 

Miss Poppy Makes the Deadline: Cressida Skirt

Good afternoon, lovelies! It's been quiet around here, lately. There are cobwebs in my code and a virtual tumbleweed just bobbled by. The utter silence would, quite rightly, lead you to draw conclusions. Has Mary run off to join the circus? Is she finally pursuing her dream (read: utter nightmare) of traveling the world in a festively dangerous hot air balloon? Oh, I bet she and Sam have turned their backyard into an artisanal string cheese shop! 

Alas, no. We're all out of grand adventures here! Since the beginning of July, I've mostly been sitting in front of my computer in yoga pants, writing away on two books, and furtively glancing at the calendar. Occasionally, I will mumble, "Why did I say these books would be done by September? Whhhhhhy?" There was a break for RWA, a brief trip to Utah with my love, and the exciting news of my Avon Fanlit grand prize win. Mostly though, it's just the typing and muttering. 

Until, I got a lovely email from Mari of Seamster Patterns. She's spearheading Sewing Indie Month, this year, which kicked off with an independent pattern bundle sale. I jumped on board to join the blog tour! Not only did it get me out of yoga pants, but it got me back to my sewing machine. That's a win, kittens. 

There are ten patterns in this bundle, each cuter than the last. Initially, I was tempted to sew up the Bonnell Dress from Dixie DIY, which is named for a beloved Austin landmark and the very same place Sam proposed to me. In the end, however, my practical soul chose the Cressida Skirt from Jennifer Lauren Vintage. My wardrobe desperately needs more separates right now and, to rationalize taking time away from deadline hell, it made sense to fill that niche. 

Cressida, like all of Jennifer's patterns, is a modern twist on vintage fashion. This semi-circular skirt has a wide waistband, stylized button tabs, and options for either a single or double button front placket. It's also exactly the silhouette I like in a skirt: defined waist and swooshy hem. My fashion goal, as I enter my thirties, is to become Juliette Binoche in Chocolat. 

For this single-button version of Cressida, I chose a fabric that will easily take me into the cooler seasons. I bought this gorgeous cotton pique--a poppy print in coral, mustard, cream, and olive--in a tiny San Francisco fabric store sometime in 2009. (At the same time, I bought its sister colorway, which was used years ago on a rarely-worn Macaron dress.) The fabric works well with both brown and black accents, making it one hell of a versatile little skirt. 

Construction-wise, the Cressida skirt is a very beginner-friendly pattern. As long as you stay-stitch that waistline quickly, you'll be fine. It has a ton of details to keep more advanced seamstresses happy, however. The turned-and-topstitched placket was a blast to put together, as were the pointed belt tabs. To finish off the skirt, I serged all the seams with gray thread and catch-stitched the hem in place. 

The real show-stopper on this skirt, though, are the buttons. They're a set of lovely dark wood buttons, re-purposed from a man's 1960s coat. I picked them up at a local antique shop, which has a dangerously impressive selection of vintage sewing notions. I cannot walk past a drawer of old buttons without pawing through them for hours, y'all. My sewing room is bursting with random collections of antique and vintage fastenings. 

This skirt is exactly what I hoped for, when signing up for Sewing Indie Month. Not only was it a quick project, but it's one I've already worn multiple times. Thanks to the melange of colors in the fabric, it pairs easily with much of my wardrobe. In the run-up to RWA, I made a couple of easy rayon knit tops, like this black version of McCall's 6513. Each one looks outstanding with this skirt! I am already fantasizing about wearing it with boots and tights, once the fall actually rolls around. You know, in November. 

Are you ready for the cooler weather, friends? Or are you still relishing sundresses and shorts? This particular seasonal change always boosts my sewing creativity. It's about now that I start craving tweeds and jewel tones. 

***

This blog post is one of the last stops on the Sewing Indie Month Pattern Bundle blog tour. The sale actually ends tomorrow, August 12th, but there's still time to get on the action! There's a tiered scale of paying for the bundle, with different patterns unlocking at $32 and $38. What's more, 20% of all donations go toward the International Folk Art Alliance, which provides exhibition and education opportunities for folk artists around the world. A complete list of the patterns can be found at the Sewing Indie Month website, along with more details about upcoming SIM events.

To check out other outfits made with these patterns, you can hit up the blogs of my fellow tour participants:

• Almond Rock
• CarmencitaB
• Casa Crafty
• Girls in the Garden
• Grey's Fabric & Notions
• Handmade by Carolyn
• House of Pinheiro
• How Good is That?
• Idle Fancy
• Lucky Lucille
• Miss Crayola Creepy
• Pretty Girls Sew
• Scruffy Badger Time
• Sew Busy Lizzy
• Sew Sweetness
• Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing
• Thread Theory
• Workroom Social

Note: In exchange for participating in the Sewing Indie Month blog tour, I received all patterns in the bundle for free. To offset my lack of purchase, I've also donated to the IFAA, which you can learn more about at this link. 

Miss Noelle Walks in Technicolor

Good evening, kittens! Things have been a bit hectic around here, lately. While summers are supposed to be languorous and sunshine-filled, mine has been filled other things entirely. Namely, frantic bouts of writing on a deadline and lots of driving. We've been to Albuquerque, Houston, Austin, and Marfa, all in the span of a few weeks. I am le tired, y'all.

Before all that hubbub, however, I did get some sewing done. This lovely dress, which fairly screams Mary, was my Mood Sewing Network project for the month of June. I've had this lightweight floral cotton on my radar for months now. It's exactly the sort of fabric that gets my sewing engine going: bright, floral, and breathable. So, I finally gave in and ordered a few yards. Somehow, this cotton is actually prettier in person. Oranges, reds, yellows, and greens tumble across that hot pink background in the loveliest watercolor floral pattern. It's gorgeous! 

Naturally, I turned it into a sundress. Because, of course I did.

The pattern I used is, technically, Simplicity 1873. However, I had a different vision than 1873's simple two-dart bodice. Something a bit more interesting was called for, in this fabric. I changed the scoop neck to a deep, rounded vee. Then I extended the shoulder line out and up, to make a cut-on cap sleeve, which was finished with a bias band of fabric. To match the front bodice, I then drafted a rounded v-neck onto the back. It's a design similar to a RTW dress that's been in my closet for ages and is one of my favorites.

For the skirt portion, I nabbed the pattern pieces from Vogue 9100. It's a gathered skirt, with hip shaping, and gloriously deep pockets. It's the perfect pairing for the bodice and fabric. The gentle gathering doesn't add bulk, but it's super swishy in the summer heat. Lovely, right?

Technique wise, I pulled out some stops with this dress. It's fully lined in a polka dot, lemon-colored cotton batiste that's been in my stash for eons. The center back zipper is lapped, sewn in by hand, then whip-stitched to the lining. Our main dress fabric was also hemmed by hand, then the lining was triple top-stitched on my machine with a pretty wide hem to increase the swoosh factor. 

Yeah, that's a lot of snooty "by hand" talk in the paragraph above. Plenty of that could've been done by machine just as well, but I needed something to do with my hands, while watching Orphan Black! (Can we talk about the great Donny & Helena moments, this season? They were my absolute favorite scenes, of the whole series. Except, perhaps, for Allison's glue gun psychotic break in Season 1.) Either way, I really like the result. The dress feels special, when I'm wearing it. 

Even better, it dresses up or down beautifully. For summer weddings or date nights, a bright belt and nude heels elevate the look. During my usual day-to-day roamings, though, it looks great with strappy tan sandals and sunglasses.  It's a deceptive workhorse of a garment.

 

Oh, there is one last fun detail of this dress!  Did you check out my clothing label, earlier in the post? Sam surprised me, last month, with a whole heap of sew-in labels for my garments. They have a cute vintage machine on them and say, "A lovely garment by Idle Fancy." He's really the most wonderful of men.

It seems fitting that this dress, the most Mary dress I've made in quite some time, should be the first to get a real label. Since making this dress, I've worn it about once a week. The lining is so light that it's still comfortable and breezy, in the Texas heat. I need a bit more practice putting the labels in, but y'all gave me some fabulous tips on Instagram. Thanks again!

Unfortunately, this is the last sundress I'll be working on, for a little while. I have a writing conference coming up in New York, at the end of July. More business-appropriate clothes are on the docket, for the next few weeks! Happy sewing! 

 

Note: The fabric for the main body of this dress was provided to me, free of charge, by Mood Fabrics as part of the Mood Sewing Network. However, all opinions in this post are my own.