But, Miss Cora, Roses Aren't Blue! : Simplicity 2215

 

Readers, I made it again. Simplicity 2215 just refuses to leave my sewing table! There's good reason for that, of course. This winter, I just seemed to reach for my Liberty version of this dress over and over. The pattern is comfortable, the fabric is divinely soft, and it layers so well. How could I resist? Unfortunately, since society frowns on one wearing the same dress everyday, the practical voice in my head insisted I make another. So, I did!

Or, rather, I started to anyway. This dress has been sitting, half-sewn, on my table since early January. Why the delay? I blame the fabric. You see, not only did I decide to use Liberty again, but I broke down and chose this length of Carline print. It's my favorite of Liberty's Tana Lawns, which I hunted down after seeing Gertie's Crepe Dress last year. I've been guarding it, like "my precious," ever since. Once I decided to use it, I was scared to make a single misstep while constructing this dress. Originally, I had planned on adding a collar, in the same sapphire blue as the buttons I used. With construction almost complete, however, I started to suspect it would be too sweet. So, I contemplated...

And contemplated...

And continued to contemplate...

Until this past week, when the Sew Weekly theme became Unfinished Objects. I decided to save this poor dress from the Land of Indecisive Sewing.

Obviously, I opted for no collar. Added to the floral print, it was entirely too saccharine. Of course, I had to draft, sew, and iron the collar to make this decision. Once it was basted to the dress, I felt the overwhelming urge to run through the hills, singing The Sound of Music. It wasn't a good look.

Without it, however...it's rather splendid! I made some little changes, as always, the most obvious being the cap sleeves. They're self-drafted, with minimal poof around the cap, and I adore them. I'm not much of a sleeve girl, as my love for cardigans is deep and abiding, but these are so comfortable! And, despite what rumors would say, rather flattering. I may start substituting these sleeves into other patterns, instead of leaving them off as I usually do. 

The details...

Things I Love:

• The fabric. Oh, the fabric! There is nothing better than Liberty Tana Lawn and this print is just gorgeous. Unfortunately, it is rather hard to find at the moment. After sewing this, I had grand plans of buying it in the red and pink colorways, as well. Which are nowhere to be found, blast it! I shall be haunting Ebay, it seems. 

Things I Changed: 

• Added self-drafted cap sleeves.
• Used six buttons on the bodice, instead of four.
• Made the buttonholes horizontal, instead of vertical. I just like the look of horizontal much more, plus find that they work better for large busts.
• Added a full lining, instead of just the prescribed bodice lining.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:

• Since the pleats are asymmetrical, either mark the fold directions very well or keep the pattern handy, when folding them. Otherwise, it's a breeze!

Notions & Fabric:

• Liberty London Carline print Lawn - Ebay - $20/yard
• Sapphire Cotton Poplin - Fabric Mart - $1.50/yard
• Six covered buttons

Construction Time:

• 10 hours...or a month, depending on how you're counting. 

Miss Lydia Buys Tulips: Stitch Tulip Skirt

Lovelies, I have a problem. Skirts hate me.

I don't know why. It's not like I've started an anti-skirt movement or sworn my eternal allegiance to pants. If anything, I've always been a friend to the skirts. A pro-skirt activist even! Yet...they scorn me still.  Whenever I try my hand at making skirts, things go horribly, horribly wrong. Remember The Great Ginger Debacle of 2011? Even Simplicity 2215, which has been so good to me as a dress pattern, failed me as a skirt. Despite it being adorable out of the gate, the invisible zipper quickly broke, taking a big part of the skirt into its coils. It was consigned to the unwearable rag pile too soon.

I don't know what made me think things would go better this time. Perhaps, it was a sewing high from The Esme Dress that made me believe I could finally conquer a skirt pattern. There had been one pattern, after all, that has been haunting me for months. Ever since I discovered the Tulip Skirt pattern from Stitch Magazine, it's been on my mind. Those slanted pleats, that curvy shape! It was even designed by Jenny Gordy, for goodness sake! What's more, there are adorable versions of it all around the internet: Jenny's own pastel lovely, Make Something's version with typewriter buttons, and Emily Kate's perfect denim basic being a few of my favorites. It seemed the slam dunk of skirts.

Oh, poor foolish Mary...

 At fist glance, all seems well. It's made from a basic khaki twill, bought from JoAnn's during one of their coupon crazy weekends. In the heavier fabric, the shape is a little boxy, but the pleats are still nice and the waistband flattering. Or is it...?

It is not.

Y'all, I ran into some major fitting problems. You see, the khaki is not my first tulip skirt attempt. The first, a wearable muslin of sorts, was made from that lovely mustard Lisette twill that was on the market a few seasons ago. Unfortunately, that version is practically unwearable, as it is a good inch too small in the waist. This despite the size I cut out being suggested for my exact measurements. Even with adjusting side seams, it's a skirt only to be worn with Spanx. Two pairs would be best.

 Super cute! Until I try to eat something....

That poor, poor button. Such strain for a little thing!

Yet, I would not be defeated so easily. I decided to try the larger size, with this twill I stumbled upon. Of course, despite the measurements being only a bit larger, this skirt is too big. Witness the waistband sag in the picture above. Horrors!

I won't quibble with things being a bit too big, however. Isn't that what belts are for? If I ever attend a Turkey dinner in this skirt, I shall be able to eat all I like, without fear of button malfunctions. Unfortunately, we have another problem. This fabric loves wrinkles like I love Sherlock Holmes. Y'all, in these photos, I've been wearing this skirt for all of 10 minutes. And I have not sat down. Yet, look! Look at those waistband wrinkles! This puppy has been interfaced to within an inch of its life and still - still! - it wrinkles. You should see it right now. I look as if I've been in a fight with an accordion. Sigh.

 Still, at least it's wearable, right? I don't feel particularly lovely in it, but I'm sporting it in public today. The yellow one has yet to see the light of day. As of yet, no one has pointed and laughed. So...that's a good sign. It's just a bit of a meh skirt, you know? Nothing I'm particularly proud of. I do think in a lighter weight fabric, like the suggested linen, it might be a bit more flattering. Twill doesn't exactly drape well, after all. Let's be honest, though. I probably won't be making another version of this to find out. Another skirt pattern will have to win me over, instead. For now, I'm back to my beloved dresses...

Onto the not-so-delightful details...

Things I Changed:

• Added an extra button to the waistband. I thought one button of this size and that wide waistband was asking for odd pulling and twisting about. So, I added another. It still oddly pulls and twists about.
• Omitted the tie waist. The tie on the pattern was a bit short and I didn't like the bulk it added to the waist, so I unpicked it and consigned it to the trash.

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

• Fix the bloody waistband! I don't know how, but I would. There has to be a happy medium between to tight and too saggy. This is not it.  I will not be making another one of these, though, as I've had enough skirt punishment for the time being.

Things I Love:

• The buttons. I always love buttons. Plus, these are from a vintage covered button kit I scored off of Etsy. A seller had bought a sewing lot at an estate sale and didn't know what to do with the 30 kits she ended up with. Well, since I firmly believe modern covered button kits are total rubbish, I took them off her hands. Hooray! I have enough covered button kits for at least a year.

Notions & Fabric:

• Khaki twill from JoAnn Fabrics: $7/yard on sale
• Six hand-covered fabric buttons

Time to Make:

• Three hours

Do you have any skirt pattern suggestions, dear readers? Something that will cleanse my sewing palate of all these disasters? I need something to turn my luck around!

Miss Esme and the Mummy

 Hello, lovely readers! Hope you're doing well on this fine spring day. What's that you say? It's February, Mary, so it can't be spring no matter which hemisphere you're in? Well, tell that to the weather. Someday, I will write a blog post without mentioning how strange Texas weather is. Today is not that day. Y'all, it's in the eighties. In February! I know we have a reputation for heat, but normally we get a winter, I swear. I shan't complain, however, because...it means more dress-wearing!

My newest creation is The Esme Dress. Last week, The Sew Weekly charged its contributors with the task of recreating a look we loved. I didn't even need to look through my inspiration folder. There was one dress I'd been dying to knock off. If you read vintage fashion blogs, you know of Esme and the Laneway, a slice of retro delight from Down Under. A few weeks ago, the lovely Esme modeled her "Grey Buttons Summer Dress," and I fell in love. With its sweetheart bodice detail, that line of tiny buttons, and - oh, heavens! - the piping, the dress was all my retro-fueled daydreams come true.

Of course, this being a dress Esme had picked up in 2006, I couldn't exactly find one of my own. So, I set off into the wild world of pattern drafting to make it myself...

Obviously, the bodice was the toughest part. After much deliberating, I decided to draft a mash up of two patterns I already had fitted - the Colette Peony and the Colette Macaron. The Peony would be my base, while the Macaron would lend its sweetheart bust and rounded neckline. If anyone is interested, I can do a future post featuring the steps I went through and how the pattern pieces turned out, but I ended up with: a yoke, an inside button placket, and the main bodice. I piped the seam between the yoke and the button placket, then joined the yoke and main bodice with the buttons themselves. It's a pretty great bodice replica, if I do say so myself. The curve of the Macaron was just perfect!

My fabric choice was easy. I've had this lovely pale yellow floral in my stash for a year now, waiting for the perfect project to come along. With its chocolate-outlined white flowers, it had the perfect vintage look that this dress needed. I made coordinating fabric-covered chocolate buttons and piping, just so I knew everything would match perfectly.

 The skirt is directly from the Peony, with a little added width drafted in, since I decided to turn the original gathers into pleats. Thanks to fabric constraints, I couldn't fully pleat the skirt, but I added a few angled pleats on both the front and back. Oh, and piping, of course! During construction, I couldn't decide if I would prefer The Esme Dress belted or plain, so I added more chocolate piping to the waistline. A girl must have her waist definition, after all. Naturally, I've since decided I prefer it belted, so...it's a totally hidden detail. But y'all will appreciate it, right?

 

Well, hello piping! You're sure looking fabulous!

Also, check out that invisible side zipper. I do love when they're actually, you know, invisible.

Onto the All-Important Details... 

 

Things I Love:

•  The silhouette! It's 1960's dreamy. There's something about the buttons mixed with that A-line skirt that is so mod, don't you think?
• The buttons! Of course. The entire reason I made this dress was for that adorable sweetheart row of buttons. They were totally worth it. I'm in dress love.

Things I Would Change, If I Made It Again:

•  The skirt. I really think this bodice style deserves the full box pleats of Esme's original version. Next time, I will use a 4 yard cut of fabric, instead of a 2.5 yard, so I can fit them in.
• The fit. I wish the bodice were just a hair snugger. Because it's fully lined, altering it at this point would just be headache, but my darts will be wider next time around.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions: 

• Piping can be such a bastard, y'all. The best way I've found to do it is to baste the piping in place ahead of time, with your basting line exactly where you want the visible piping to end. Then, when you join the pattern pieces, stitch precisely along your basting line. Voila! Perfect piping!

Notions & Fabric:

• Yellow floral stretch cotton - Gorgeous Fabrics - $9/yard
• Brown cotton poplin for lining - Fabric Mart - $1.99/yard
• White 12-inch invisible zipper
• 15 fabric-covered buttons
• 3 yards handmade chocolate piping

Time to Make:

• 10 hours, thanks to ye olde buttons and piping

Title Explanation:

When originally taking photos of this dress, it was raining. So, I hied myself over to my parents' house to make use of their lovely sunroom. Which, incidentally, is also where one of my mother's favorite things dwells...her mummy, Nefret. Never fear, dear readers, the mummy is completely fake and originally bought from The Martha Stewart Catalog, of all places. We are big Halloween fans in my family, so Nefret was originally displayed for that holiday but...my mother and I are also Egyptology geeks. We just couldn't face putting her in the attic. So, she's become a permanent fixture. For each holiday, Nefret is dressed appropriately, whether in a sequined Santa hat or with her very own Easter basket. Yes, we are a bit ghoulish around these parts...

If it's off-putting to you, don't worry, you're not alone. One of my dearest friends from high school used to refuse to sit with her back turned toward Nefret, for fear of what she might do. Personally, she just makes me wish to reread Crocodile on the Sandbank, whenever I see her.

 Nefret and I

 How does one pose with a mummy? Well, there are options...

Postscript: What do y'all think of the new blog look? I've been dissatisfied with my original efforts for some time, so I updated it in my spare time this week. Something a bit more modern was called for, don't you think?

Shabby Apple Winner!

And the winner is....

Hooray! Congratulations, Montana! Once I get your size and mailing address, the lovely people at Shabby Apple will send your skirt to you. Hope you love it!

Shabby Apple Giveaway!

Good news, kittens. The lovely folks at Shabby Apple have kindly offered to give away one of their adorable, vintage-inspired pieces to one Idle Fancy reader. Exciting, right?

I've been a big Shabby Apple fan, since they first opened their virtual doors. They have some of the cutest, vintage-inspired women's dresses and skirts. So many of them have made it into my inspiration folders and Pinterest boards. Whether your style is Old Hollywood Glamour or Academic Chic, they have a collection for you. Personally, I've been ogling their Set Sail pieces for months now. What woman doesn't need a navy sailor's dress in her closet?

When it came time for me to pick the giveaway item, I decided to go for a great wardrobe basic. I absolutely love the line of bow skirts Shabby Apple makes. With their high waists and curvy pencil shape, they flatter most body types and have that retro flair we all love. The black canvas version, Francine, specifically has Joan Holloway written all over it. How could I resist?

Adorable! Just picture it with a snug ivory sweater and some red T-straps. Swoon.

To win your very own Francine skirt, just go to Shabby Apple's Facebook page and "like" them, then come back here and leave a comment (with your e-mail!) letting me know you did! The giveaway will run through Sunday, January 29th, at 11:59 PM Central Time, at which time I'll draw one lucky winner. Unfortunately, the giveaway is only open to readers with US shipping addresses and the winning skirt can't be exchanged, but don't fret! Shabby Apple has also made a special discount code, just for Idle Fancy. If you enter "idlefancy10off" at checkout for the next month, you will receive 10% off your entire order. Hooray! So, hurry on over to Facebook and good luck!

Miss Violet Is A Natural: Darling Ranges Dress

Last week, Mena chose a technique for the Sew Weekly challenge - buttons! This was lucky, as I already had another Darling Ranges Dress cut out on my sewing table. A little gathering and a lot of buttonholes later, it was done!

Like my first iteration, this is such a comfortable dress! Unfortunately, unlike my first dress, this one is brown. I used a small scale floral cotton calico, bought from Fabric Mart during ye olde gigantic sale. Obviously, I have a hard time saying no to dirt-cheap fabrics. I don't even like brown. You wouldn't know that from my stash, however, or all the brown dresses I've made recently.

This is probably the least wearable one of the three. Though I love the dress design itself, the fabric is hard to pair up. There are four colors in the small floral print - the light cocoa background, ivory, an orangey tan (which I used for the buttons, as well) and an odd light blue/gray. There's something about the combination that limits outfit options. Brown tights work, a brown belt works, but I've only had success with mustard shoes and, you guessed it, brown shoes. So much brown! 

As for little details, the buttons are made from tan leather and - miraculously - washable. I really love them! They bring out the other colors in the dress well, without shouting their presence. The buttonholes themselves are machine-done, as I am a lazy, lazy sewist. Per the pattern directions, the neckline is finished with bias tape (ivory) and the sleeves are elasticized. Comfy! It's also super roomy, as I forgot about the post-FBA narrow waist adjustment I did last time. One can't tell when it's belted, however, so it just makes the dress that much more easy-to-wear. If you're looking for more construction details and tips, check out my original Darling Ranges blog post.

 

Fabric Used: Cotton calico from Fabric Mart - $1.99/yard

Notions: 15 leather buttons, from Hancock Fabrics, and self-made ivory bias tape.

Time to Complete: 6 hours, thank you buttons!

First worn: January 17, 2012

Wear again: Yes, if I can mitigate that vast sea of brown a bit more!
Total Price: $12