Thursday, February 9, 2012

But, Miss Cora, Roses Aren't Blue! : Simplicity 2215


Readers, I made it again. Simplicity 2215 just refuses to leave my sewing table! There's good reason for that, of course. This winter, I just seemed to reach for my Liberty version of this dress over and over. The pattern is comfortable, the fabric is divinely soft, and it layers so well. How could I resist? Unfortunately, since society frowns on one wearing the same dress everyday, the practical voice in my head insisted I make another. So, I did!

Or, rather, I started to anyway. This dress has been sitting, half-sewn, on my table since early January. Why the delay? I blame the fabric. You see, not only did I decide to use Liberty again, but I broke down and chose this length of Carline print. It's my favorite of Liberty's Tana Lawns, which I hunted down after seeing Gertie's Crepe Dress last year. I've been guarding it, like "my precious," ever since. Once I decided to use it, I was scared to make a single misstep while constructing this dress. Originally, I had planned on adding a collar, in the same sapphire blue as the buttons I used. With construction almost complete, however, I started to suspect it would be too sweet. So, I contemplated...

And contemplated...

And continued to contemplate...

Until this past week, when the Sew Weekly theme became Unfinished Objects. I decided to save this poor dress from the Land of Indecisive Sewing.


Obviously, I opted for no collar. Added to the floral print, it was entirely too saccharine. Of course, I had to draft, sew, and iron the collar to make this decision. Once it was basted to the dress, I felt the overwhelming urge to run through the hills, singing The Sound of Music. It wasn't a good look.


Without it, however...it's rather splendid! I made some little changes, as always, the most obvious being the cap sleeves. They're self-drafted, with minimal poof around the cap, and I adore them. I'm not much of a sleeve girl, as my love for cardigans is deep and abiding, but these are so comfortable! And, despite what rumors would say, rather flattering. I may start substituting these sleeves into other patterns, instead of leaving them off as I usually do. 


The details...
Things I Love:
  • The fabric. Oh, the fabric! There is nothing better than Liberty Tana Lawn and this print is just gorgeous. Unfortunately, it is rather hard to find at the moment. After sewing this, I had grand plans of buying it in the red and pink colorways, as well. Which are nowhere to be found, blast it! I shall be haunting Ebay, it seems. 
Things I Changed: 
  • Added self-drafted cap sleeves.
  • Used six buttons on the bodice, instead of four.
  • Made the buttonholes horizontal, instead of vertical. I just like the look of horizontal much more, plus find that they work better for large busts.
  • Added a full lining, instead of just the prescribed bodice lining.

Tricky Steps & Suggestions:
  • Since the pleats are asymmetrical, either mark the fold directions very well or keep the pattern handy, when folding them. Otherwise, it's a breeze!
Notions & Fabric:
  • Liberty London Carline print Lawn - Ebay - $20/yard
  • Sapphire Cotton Poplin - Fabric Mart - $1.50/yard
  • Six covered buttons
Construction Time:
  • 10 hours...or a month, depending on how you're counting. 

20 comments

  1. 'Splendid' is definitely the word I'd use for this dress also! Absolutely lovely!!!

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  2. You're so talented. :) I've been scouting this blog, Mary, and you do gorgeous work.

    My mom has wanted me to learn to sew for, well, all my life. I don't think I have the patience. But your dresses make me want to give it a go again.

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    1. Marn, oh my gosh! Thank you! I am so thrilled you stumbled across the blog.

      Also, no lie, I am the most impatient person alive. Oddly enough, I find sewing very therapeutic...it puts me in that same "right brain" space that we get to while writing. I just lose all track of time! If you do decide to give it a go, let me know. I would love to talk sew stuff! :D

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  3. that last picture has such pretty light. oh that Liberty of London is gorgeous. i must search eBay daily until i find some really great Liberty. i'm not a dress person but this blog has inspired me to try wearing some more this summer!

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    1. Oh, Sarah, thank you! I've been trying with the photography, so it's wonderful to know it's getting better.

      Also, good luck on your Liberty hunt! Ebay is absolutely the best place to track it down - so much more reasonable than normal retailers. Plus, it really is the best stuff to make summery dresses out of. I'm so glad to have inspired more dressmaking! My evil plan is working! ;)

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  4. Darling! I especially love the dark blue buttons, well done!

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    1. Thank you, Jill! I love the buttons, as well. There's just something about fabric-covered buttons, isn't there?

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  5. Gorgeous! I found your blog just now thru my backlinks, how am I not following you already! You have got mad skills!!

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    1. Thanks so much, EmilyKate! Also, can we just mutual blog love? I adore your stuff! You have such fantastic style.

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  6. The dress is really lovely. I love liberty prints, ut I not made anything from the yet.

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    1. Thanks, Dibs! I will say, pulling the trigger on actually making something with Liberty is really hard. It's one of those "It's so lovely, I don't want to ruin it!" dilemmas. I bet there is more sewist angst over Liberty than any other fabric line!

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  7. Gah! You keep reminding me that I must make more dresses, and really must buy a few more cardigans to layer with! You are so adorable! And now I also must stalk ebay for wonderful Liberty fabrics, you're making me drool!

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    1. Thanks so much, Montana! If I can fill the world with other sewists wearing dresses and cardigans, my mission in life will be fulfilled! ;) There's nothing I love more than a great dress. And you will DEFINITELY have to stalk Ebay. I swear, people must not realize what they have, because the prices are so disparate from what retailers charge. It's amazing.

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  8. This is really beautiful! Ive made the skirt version before, but having seen your dresses, I think I'll try out a dress next time (in Liberty, naturally!).

    With the skirt lining, did you also add pleats to the lining? Or did you gather, or cut it differently?

    Serious dress envy x

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    1. Thank you so much, Shivani! You definitely have to make the dress version, if only so I can drool over how awesome it ends up being. ;)

      For the lining, I just cut the same skirt pieces, but did gather them instead of pleating. With the gathering, I think the skirt gains a nice fullness, like a mini-petticoat underneath.

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  9. Oh so pretty! This print is to die for and the fit is divine! Now I crave spring. And blue roses. And there I go thinking about the Glass Menagerie. Vicious cycle.

    Strugglesewsastraightseam.wordpress.com

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  10. Pretty - the fabric is wonderful and I love the little blue buttons!

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  11. This is gorgeous! I'd love to make something from Liberty but sometimes I cringe at cutting into my $3 a yard stuff. I'm not sure I'd ever be brave enough to take the scissors to Liberty. :]

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  12. Love the dress you look fabulous.

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